Dave Gapinski's Travels 2016: January 2016

THURSDAY January 7, 2016

WEATHER: Cold in Wisconsin at 3:30 in the morning. It was 80 at 2 pm in Honolulu; 72 when I got to Hilo and at 4,200 feet it was 60 at Kilauea Military Camp with clouds that turned to partly cloudy.

TRAVEL: Milwaukee-Chicago-Honolulu-Hilo to Kiluaea Military Camp (KMC) Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

United Airlines cancelled my 0730 flight from MKE to ORD; luckily my travel agent called me and arranged for a 0530 flight – allowed me time to eat breakfast. The flight from Chicago to Honolulu was 8 hours and 26 minutes. We arrived in HNL a little after 2 pm Hawaiian time (4 hours earlier than CST). The flight to Hilo was at 4pm so I grabbed some dinner in the airport and checked into Kilauea Military Camp (KMC) about 6:15pm.

KMC - one bedroom apartment

KMC - entrance to Unit AD

Phone works at KMC but NO WIFI except through TWC at $10/day – I’ll use my phone as a hotspot for 2 days.

I’ve stayed at KMC before and rented a 3 bedroom 2 bath, with kitchen and living room several years ago. No I’ve got a nice 1 bedroom suite. Located in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park the price is right and the location is perfect. KMC is a Moral, Welfare & Recreation (MWR) Facility for active and retired military/DOD employees. Amenities include general store, recreation center, bowling lanes, laundry, dining room, grill and gas station. The crater is just across the road less than 200 yards away. The Volcanoes National Park Visitor Center is about a mile down the road.

FRIDAY January 8, 2016

WEATHER: cool 56 at 5 am (EL 4000) – sunrise 6:57 am - should reach a high of 70 here today it will be 10 degrees warmer on the coast

TRAVEL: Volcanoes National Park

Hawaii - Volcanoes National Park - If planning a "Brief Visit" These are the 'must see.
I spent almost 3 full days in the park and still there were more trails to walk.'

260 VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

Volcanoes are land builders –Volcanoes are monuments to the the Earth’s origin - they created the Hawaiian Island chain. Kīlauea and Mauna Loa, two of the world's most active volcanoes, are still adding to the island of Hawaii. Mauna Loa is the most massive mountain on Earth occupying an estimated volume of 19,999 cubic miles. The current summit of Mauna Loa stands about 56,000 feet (17,000 m) above the depressed sea floor. This is more than 27,000 feet (8,230 m) higher than Mount Everest. In contrast to the explosive continental volcanoes, the more fluid and less gaseous eruptions of Kīlauea and Mauna Loa produce fiery fountains and rivers of molten lava. These flows, adding layer upon layer, produce a barren volcanic landscape that serves as a fountain for life.

Hundreds of species of plants and animals found their way across the vast Pacific on wind, water, and the wings of birds. A few survived, adapted, and prospered during this time of isolation. The arrival of humans - first Polynesians, then Europeans - and the plants and animals they brought with them drastically altered this evolutionary showcase, this grand natural experiment.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park displays the results of at least 70 million years of volcanism, migration, and evolution in the Hawaiian Island-Emperor Seamount chain-processes that would thrust a bare land from the sea and clothed it with complex and unique ecosystems and a distinct human culture. Created to preserve the natural setting of Kīlauea and Mauna Loa, the park is also a refuge for the island's native plants and animals and a link to its human past. Park managers and scientists work to protect the resources and promote understanding and appreciation of the park visitors. Research by scientists at the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory makes Kīlauea one of the best understood volcanoes in the world, shedding light on the birth of the Hawaiian Islands and the beginnings of planet Earth. Each eruption is a reminder of the power of natural

The CRATER RIM DRIVE is a 6 mile drive along the edge of Kiluaea Caldera with several stops, trails and points of interest. I’ve been here twice before but there is always something different and more to explore.

The SULPHUR BANKS TRAIL l is a 'must do' A 1.6 mile round trip from the Visitor Center.
You can see it's lcoations from the map. Steam vents, view of the Kilauea Caldera - mostly level.

Sulphur Banks Trail
Steam Vents

A short drive to the Steam Vents Parking Lot, I walked the short Sulphur Banks Trail (.8 mile) to the Visitor Center which did not open until 9 am. The Sulphur Banks Trail is an easy walk in the steam vent field and along the old outer rim of the Kilauea Caldera.

At the VC I watched a ½ hour film (no change here and still not that informative) and listened to a short ranger talk – not very informative – but then maybe I was expecting more . . . .the VC and much of the park was built/developed by a Hawaiian CCC in the 1930’s.

I returned to my vehicle via the Crater Rim Trail (.8 mile).

Kiluaea Caldera with steam rising from Halema'uma'u Crater
View from Kiluaea Looklout below Jagger Museum
There is red hot lava in the crater. During the evening the
lava reflects off the steam giving the "glow'"

A drive to the Kiluaea Lookout, Jagger Museum and Hawaiian Volano Oberservatory completed this trip on the Crater Rim Drive. The lava in the Halema’uma’u Crater of the Kiluaea Caldera is still creating a steam cloud that draws crowds to view its glow in the evening.

The next stop was the Kiluaea Iki Trail parking lot. I had walked this 4 mile, 400 foot descent and ascent in the Kiluaea Iki Crater several years ago. A great walk but it will take 3 hours and plenty of water. The last time I walked this, I didn’t know there was a trail guide and
didn’t fully understand the story of Kiluaea Iki. I thought I’d walk it in the right direction this time with 15 numbered trail markers explained . .
. .

Thsese are photoes of the 1959 Kilaeea Iki eruption . Avery close to Kiluaea Caldera. Iwalked

Prior to 1959, the floor of Kiluaea Iki Crater was covered with trees.

The Kiluaea Iki Trail Pakring Lot is about .4 mil s to the
left of this aerial view of the
Thruston Lava Tube Parking area.

Floor of Kiluaea Iki
from Pu'a Pua'i Overlook
Can you see
the trail at the bottom?

On November 14, 1959 Kiluaea Iki began to erupt from a half mile long fissure in the crater. Several more vents along the fissure consolidated into one main vent and for 5 weeks fountains of lava gushed from the vent.. Molten lave flooded the crater, creating lake that rose halfway up the crater walls. The cinder-and-spatter cone, Pu’u Pua’iI (gushing hill), did not exist before 1959. It was created by a lava fountain that surged up to 1,900 feet above the cones vent.

BOTTOM LINE: Walked this before – maybe tomorrow.

I walked the Crater Rim Trail (1.0 mile round trip) to the Thurston Lava Tube Trail (.4 mile). I've Been here twice before, but it was a short walk.

A picture of the lava fountain that sprung from the edge of Kiluaea Iki
creating Pu'u Pua'i cinder cone The lava fountain eruptions crated a lava lake
in Kiluaea Iki Crater

A drive to the Pu’u Pua’i Overlook allows you to peer into the Kiluaea Iki Crater and is one terminus of the Devestation Trail (1.0 mile round trip). This paved walk skirts the 1959 Pu’a Pua’i cinder cone.

CHAIN OF CRATERS ROAD – is a 38 mile drive from Crater Rim Drive, descending 3,700 feet to the coast - ending at the 2003 lave flow.

Deveatsion Trail - to the ight if the cinder cone of
Pu'u Pua'i Befroe 1959 this was part of Crater Rim Drive
around Kiluaea Caldera

I’ve driven Chain of Craters Road before but didn’t stop at every crater – this time I did and took a side trip down the 9 mile one-way, one lane, paved Hilina Pali Road to the Halina Pali Overlook. Here I walked a 1 mile round trip down and up the Halina Pali Trail – just because I could.- continuing on the trail is for serious wilderness hikers.

Map of Volcanoes NP showing Crater Rim Drive aournd Kiluaea Caldera -
Chain of Craters Drive to the Ocean and the road to the Halina Pali Overlook and
trail connections

Petroglyph

Petroglyphs Trail
of course it is all
across a lava bed

Continuing on the Chain of Craters Road, crossing 1969-1974 lava flows and down the Holie Pali I stopped at the Pu’u Loa Petroglyphs Trailhead.. I had not walked the Pu’u Loa Petroglyphs Trail (1.4 mile round trip) before. Pu’u Loa means “hill of long life” and this is where Hawaiian elders etched the life and culture of the native Hawaiian people. Since Hawaiians did not have a written language – little is known about the meanings of the etchings. There are more petroglyphs here than any I’ve seen in the continental southwest.

Continuing on Chain of Craters Road brings you to Hole Sea Arch and the End of Chain of Crater Road Trail (2 mile round trip). This walk was different , instead of the ¾ mile walk to the where the road was covered by lava in 2003. – the NPS has rebuilt the road as an unpaved pedestrian walkway emergency access route. I walked another ½ mile on the gravel road only to

confirm my suspicion that the road was rebuilt. I did not walk to its end.

Halina Pali Trail

End Chain of
Craters Road
Sea Arch

A return to the Jagger Museum confirmed that crowds still gather at 6:15 pm to see the “glow” – uneventful but there is a mysterious draw . . . . . buffet dinner at KMC

Clearest sky and the brightest stars I’ve seen since last January in the Big Cypress Swamp/Everglades.

The"glow" in the night sky
caused by the red hot lava reflecting off the steam from the volcano

SATURDAY January 9, 2016

WEATHER: cool 54 and sunny in the morning, warms quickly and walking in the sun can break a sweat, in the 70’s and haze by afternoon, it was 80 at the coast at the end of Chain of Craters road – 60 back on top at 6 pm with the sun setting.

TRAVEL: Volcanoes National Park

The Mauna Ulu Trail The Chain of Craters Road was covered in lava flows
due to the 1969 eruption. The trail is worth the walk. A hike up
Pu'u Huluhulu allows you to see Mauna Ulu cinder cone

260 VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

Manuna Ulu/Pu’u Huluhulu Trail - A 2.5 mile walk through a lava landscape from the 1969-1974 Mauna Ulu flow. I started this trail about 8:30 am and finished 2 hours later. I had not walked this before, bought a Mauna Ulu Eruption Guide and found the 16 numbered stops interesting. The trail guide tells the story of one of the longest known rift zone eruptions of Kilauea. The trail is fairly well marked but I did get a bit confused on the lava fields, once going straight into a’a lava field when I should have turned left and gone over a lava ridge along the 1969 fissure. The route is easy except for the ¼ mile 210 foot steep climb up Pu’u Huluhulu Cone – a trail worth the effort.

On May 24, 1969 earthquakes signaled the opening of a large fissure in a quiet forest along the Chain of Craters Road. Red-hot lava emerged, a new eruption and the birth of Mauna Ulu. Over 5 years 6 miles of the road, cultural sites, and coastal grasslands were buried in the lava’s flow to the sea. During the course of the eruption 5 pit craters, along Chain of Craters Road, were partially or completely filled with lava.

Mauna Ulu from Stop 13 along the Mauna Ulu Trail
This cinder cone is still steaming - you cannot walk up it's side
This is a close up take from Pu'u Huluhulu

The floor of Hi’iaka Crater was covered when it erupted in May 1973. Pele’s sister Hi’iaka is known to nurture new forests after an eruption.

A short eruption occurred on the floor of Pauahi Crater in May 1973. A few months later, new fissures split the walls and lava flooded the crater’s floor. Its names means “destroyed by fire.”

‘Alo’i Crater, named for the favorite pig of Kahawali, chief of Puna, was filled during the eruption. When Kahawali refused to race Pele, she (in the form of lava), chased him to the sea. The road used to skirt ‘Alo’i.Crater. Today it is covered by the 1969-1974 flows.

Geologists watched
Mauna Ulu erupt in
distance from
behind this wall
on Pu'u Huluhulu until
a new fissure started to spew
hot rock on them. They ran down
and didn't follow the trail.

‘Alae Crater, also once skirted by the road was inundated with lava in the first half of the eruption. It was named for a black wading bird who kept the secret of how to make fire from man. The demigod Maui fought ‘Alae Ula and retrieved the secret for this people.

The Mauna Ulu Lava Shield also cascaded into Makaopuhi Crater, but only filled the deeper half of the giant pit. It was named “eye of the eel” for a lens of bluish lava that appeared on the lower crater wall. The former Chain of Craters Road also skirted this crater.

After completing the Mauna Ulu Trail, I returned to the Visitor Center and walked the following series of connecting trails: VC-Volcano House – Crater Rim Trail (1.0) - Kiluaea Iki Trail (.2) -Waldron Ledge Trail (.9) – Halema’uma’u Trail (.9) – Illahia Trail (.4) – Crater Rim Trail (.7) to VC. This walk took 2 hours. Most of these trails I had not walked before.

Crater Rim Trail to Kilauea Iki Trail to Waldron Ledge Trail - into the caldera
and follow the Halema;uma'u Trail out of the caldera to the Iliahia Trail to the Crater Rim Trail and return to the
Volcano House/Visitor Center

The Crater Rim Trail (1.0 miles) begins at Volcano House on a longunused p ortion of the what was probably once Crater Rim Drive. This was a new walk for me. It connects to .4 mile section of the Kilauea Iki Trail, which connects to the Waldron Ledge Trail. I walked .9 mile along the Waldron Ledge Trail to bottom of the Killauea Caldera where it connects with the Halema’uma’u Trail. It was a .9 mile walk up out of the caldera and connected with the Iliahi Trail (.4 mile). This was all new territory for me. The Iliahi Trail connects with the Crater Rim Trail and back to the Volcano House and VC.

I was 1:30 pm, I was hungry, pretty well used and decided that there was not enough time to walk the entire Kilauea Iki Trail. I returned to KMC, took a shower, and rested.

St. Theresa Church is a 20 minute drive down Highway 11 toward Hilo. The church is very small and its interior is painted similar to the “Painted Church” near Pu’uhonua O Honauna NHP. A very friendly community – they recognized each visitor with an aloha welcome of lei beads. The gospel of Christ’s Baptism and a choir of ‘native’ Hawaiians with 2 guitars and a small electric keyboard. A deacon from Delaware was alittle over zealous but as he said he “loves to preach” then a diocesan visitor preached at the end of mass about the “new” stewardship. Guess some things take longer to reach Hawaii. The 2 guys could sing – the older women – bless them,

SUNDAY January 10, 2016

WEATHER: clear and 52 with the sun rising; 52 and sunny on Mauna Loa at 6662 ft, a warm 75 and sunny for the hikes in Kahuku and 76 and hazy-cloudy to the west in Kona – looked like rain higher up Mauna Loa on it’s western slopes.

TRAVEL: KMC – Mauna Loa Lookout –Kahuku - Pu’uhonua O Honaunau – Outrigger Royal Sea Cliff Condo Resort, Kailuea-Kona

HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

If you're adventurous and have a few days and the right gear - this would be an interesting wilderness walk.

The slopes of Mauna Loa are right across the road. I took a drive up the Mauna Loa Road to Mauna Loa Lookout (EL 6662 ft). The first mile is paved two lane; the next 10 miles is paved one lane. When I reached the end of the road it was sort of anti-climatic. There really is no “lookout” but the name sounds nice. There is a CCC built shelter and this is where the Mauna Loa Trail begins – a 3-4 day walk (22 miles one way) to Mauna Loa’s Summit (EL 13677 ft), the Moku’aweaweo Caldera and back. I walked about ½ mile of the trail to what I call the “goat gate” and back.

View of Kilauea Caldera - stem rising from Mauan Loa Trail

End of Mauna Loa Road
Looking down the one
lane road

Volcanoes NP - Kahuku Unit
Ranger Station
NPS spares no expense to
give these folks shade

Vocanoes NP
Kahuku Unit Entrance Sign

KAHUKU UNIT – Hawaii Volcanoes National Park – a 45 minute drive along Hwy 11 to Kona will bring you to the seldom visited Kahuku Unit of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Currently, they are only open weekends from 9 am – 3 pm. There are several trails here on the slopes of Mauna Loa. I walked two of them.

The trailhead is near the makeshift entrance station manned by rangers/volunteers. They do offer guided hikes on weekends on other trails that I did not walk.

Pu'u o Lokuan Trail
Stop 12 Grassland

Volcanoes NP - Kahuku Unit Trails Map
The Pu'u o Lokuana Trail is #2 on the bottom
The Kahuku Forest Trail is #5 near the top

PU’U O LOKUANA TRAIL is a 2 mile walk with an ascent of 100 feet. It took an hour to walk this trail. There is a trail guide for purchase that explains the 12 numbered markers on the trail. The trail loops through pastures and lava fields ending with a splendid view atop the grassy Pu’u o Lokuana cinder cone.

Kahuku Forest Trail
Looking into the
forested pit crater
walls is on other side

After descending Puu o Lokuana there is a one lane dirt road with a “goat gate” to get to Lower Trailhead for the Glover and Kona Trails. This is also the start of the Kahuku Forest Trail.

I hiked the KAHUKU FOREST TRAIL – a 2.4 mile trail with an ascent of 250 feet. It took me 1 ¼ hours to make this hike with 11 numbered markers. The trail crosses through pastures with lare koa and ohi’a trees and leads to the edge of a huge collapsed crater. From the craters rim you can see a natural forest refuge protected by the sheer walls of the pit.

261 PU’UHONUA O HONAUNAU National Historic Park

In old Hawaii, if you had broken a law, the penalty was death. Perhaps you had entered into an area that was reserved for only the chiefs, or had eaten forbidden foods. Laws (kapu) governed every aspect of Hawaiian society. The penalty for breaking these laws was certain death. Your only option for survival is to elude your pursuers and reach the nearest puuhonua, or place of refuge.

This was my third visit to this site – one time is enough. You can spend about an hour,

Pu'uhonua NHP
wall built to
separate commoners
from royalty

maybe an hour and a half here, following the park’s 16 stop walking tour. This site preserves aspects of traditional Hawaiian life. The site with a sheltered canoe landing and availability of drinking water was a place for the ali’I – royal chiefs – to establish a residence.

The pu’uhonua, place of refuge, was separated from the royal grounds by a massive stone wall. This place was used for centuries. In 1819, Kamehameha II abolished traditional religious practices and many of the old religious sites and structures were destroyed or abandoned. In the 1920’s the site was set aside as a County Park. It became a National Historic Park in 1961 to maintain a setting for old Hawaiian ways.

The pu'uhonua is still considered a sacred site. Therefore the it has a lot of restrictions, no commercial filming, nudity, beach chairs, towels, mats, beach umbrellas, coolers, picnicking, pets, weddings or wedding photos, smoking and recreational activities such as Frisbee throwing, football tossing, etc. are permitted – of course the oceans playground is run by entrepreneurs right next door.

Royal Sea Cliff
Living/Dinning/Kitchen

Royal Sea Cliff Resort
Kona

After continuing a drive aIong Highway 11 and a turn left onto Palani Drive to Alai’I Drive I arrived at the Outrigger Royal Sea Cliff Resort Condominium about 5 pm. Outrigger appears to be affiliated with Wyndham. A bit more than expected – a fully stocked one bedroom condo with bath, washer/dryer, kitchen, dining/living room and a farily large outdoor porch with a view of the ocean – and it’s warmer here, in contrast to KMC. NO FREE WIFI – PHONE SERVICE WORKS. Drove up Ali’i Drive for dinner at Bubba Gump’s Shrimp Company and a visit to the ABC Store.

MONDAY January 11, 2016
WEATHER: 73 and hazy to mostly sunny in Kona at 7 am. It got up to 82 – this is Hawaiian winter – same temperatures as summer but with less humidity.

TRAVEL: Outrigger - Kaloko-Honokohau – Pu’ukohola Heiau - Outrigger.

A miracle or just what Lombardi always said – ‘are all professionals – on any given day anyone can win.’ The Green Bay Packers, 2nd in NFC North beat the Washington Redskins in the NFL Wild Card Round. Packers 35 – Redskins 18. I had a busy day yesterday – just found out this morning.

262 KALOKO-HONOKOHAU National Historic Park

Entrance off the main highway.
Open air VC is right rear.

Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park offers the culture and natural history of Hawaii.The Visitor Center was built in 2003 and you can enter directly from the Highway 19. The web site and brochure directs you to the “park entrance” about a mile south of the VC. I told the ranger that in 13 years I would have thought the Park Superintendent could have spent an hour of programmers time to update the directions on the website.

This map was at the Visitor Center. I entered and walked the trail that starts top right.

This is the entrance by the Honokohua
Small Boat Harbor

I entered from the Honokohau Small Boat Harbor and walked the 2 miles of the Ala Hele Ike Hawai’I Trail to the VC and back.. There were no brochures at this entrance. I did pass the Ai’opio Fishtrap, the Anchialine Fish Ponds, and a short petroglyph board walk trail.

Ancient Hawaiian Fish trap & beach

Honokohau Beach, by the fishtrap, used to be known as a “nude beach” – not so since the NPS started to develop the land in 1978.

The ancient Hawaiians established an agricultural community here – on lava rock – because of a close to the surface fresh water source. The remains a heiau (religious temple) were on the trail to the VC. Of course, there were no interpretive markers.

There are a number of trails that extend north of the VC. Kaloko Industrial Park is directly across the street from the VC. This is an ancient Hawaiian homeland. In a conversation with a ranger, I Iearned that local residents petitioned to have NPS take the land or it surely would have been lost to development.

Pu'ukohola Heiau entrance sign

263 PU’UKOHOLA HEIAU National Historic Site

Another 45 minute drive north past the airport along Highway 19 is Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site. A ranger identified this site as ‘the most important historical site in Hawaii.’ He believe it so because this it tells the story of Kamehamea, his rise to power, and unification of the Hawaiian Islands.

Pu;ukohola Heiau map

Pu'ukohola Heiau, one of the last major temples built in the Hawaiian Islands, was constructed by Kamehameha the Great from 1790 to 1791. Arguably one of the greatest leaders in Hawaiian History, Kamehameha became the first person to unite the warring islands into the Kingdom of Hawai'i. Pu'ukohola Heiau played a crucial role in the unification of the Hawaiian Islands, for Kamehameha built the temple as a result of a prophecy that came through a priest named Kapoukahi. Thiskahuna, or priest, told Kamehameha that if he were to build a heiau on the hill known as Pu'ukohola, and dedicate it to his family’s war god Kuka'ilimoku, he would be able to conquer all of the islands.

The story of the rise of King Kamehamea who united the Hawaiian islands.
Doesn't this story of prophecy and birth sound familiar?

After moving all those stones these Hawaiians must have been muscle bound. His rival should never ou were hunted down accepted the hospitality. From what I have read, there was no mercy for enemies i.e. if you were on the losing side you
were hunted down and killed. Hence the Places of Refuge.

It is said that thousands and thousands of men labored for nearly a year to construct this heiau. Through the stories that have been passed down generation to generation, we believe that the builders brought these rocks from the distant Pololu Valley, Forming a human chain nearly 25 miles long, the laborers handed the water-worn lava rocks one person to another up and over Kohala Mountain to this site. Without the use of mortar, cement or other bonding materials, these skilled laborers placed these rocks in exact locations in order to meet specific building specifications.

The Heiau

Kamehameha was built a sacred temple and not a common structure. There are many stories that have been passed down that talk of the various events that occurred during the construction of the heiau. One such story tells of an event that highlights the grave importance placed upon following specific guidelines in building the heiau. It is said that Kamehameha had a younger brother, Keali'imaika'i, that was instructed not to work with the rocks during the construction of this heiau, for he was told that he would be defiled if he did so. Ignoring these instructions, the younger brother is said to have worked with the stones, assisting the other workers. Furious, Kamehameha gathered all of stones that his brother worked with, placed them on a canoe and had them carried beyond the horizon and dumped into the sea, hoping to appease his war god, to whom the temple would be dedicated.

Pu'ukohola Heiau

The events that took place here occurred not so long ago. At the same time that George Washington was serving as the nation’s first president, Pu'ukohola Heiau was being used by Kamehameha to secure his mana or spiritual power to help in his unification of the Hawaiian people. The pile of rocks stand as a silent testament to one of the greatest periods in Hawaiian history.

The VC was built in 2007. There is a ½ mile paved trail that runs to the ocean and up to the heiau. You are not allowed to gain entry to the heiau.

TUESDAY January 12, 2016

WEATHER: normal for Hawaii, 70’s in Kona, clouds forming on the mountains – same in Maui plenty of clouds around the mountatins

TRAVEL: Fly Leave Kailuea-Kona, Hawaii 10:28 am – Arrive Kahului, Maui 11:03 am, car rental, travel to Maui Beach Hotel then Haleakal National Park

Maui Beach Hotel. Not much to say about this place. At 1130 my room wasn’t available – the hotel and rooms are clean. The room is small, older hotel, well kept, no beach, no pool, NO WIFI, warm water I've taken colder showers..

I originally thought I’d sit around the pool for an afternoon – Not - there is no pool. I decided to drive to Haleakala National Park – Summit Unit . I was concerned but it turned out to be a good decision.

264 HALEAKALA National Park, Island of Maui, Hawaii

The item below was on the website:

PARK ALERT: Headquarters Visitor Center restrooms (7000 ft of elevation) are open. The building remains closed for renovations. Haleakala Visitor Center at the summit will issue backcountry, camping, and cabin permits from sunrise to 3pm

It continued to warn that a visit to Haleakalā National Park includes the remote Summit and Kīpahulu Districts. An ambulance can take up to 45 minutes to arrive at either district. This sounds like Death Valley and other parks in the southwest.

Heleakala National Park on the Island of Maui.
The Park HQ Visitor Center (EL 7,000 ft) was closed.
There is another VC, that was open, at the Summit (EL 10,023 ft) but even this map does not identify it.
I drove around the island (3 hours) to reach the Kipalulu VC on Wedensday.

The drive time to the Summit (EL 10,023 ft) is about 2 hours. The Park Alert correctly identified the Headqaurters VC closed but does not mention that Heleakala VC (at the summit) was open.

Haleakala - map of the road to the summit - plenty of trails to walk

During the drive up it was cloudy, when at the Park Entrance Station (EL 7,000 ft) it cleared. Definitely above the clouds – unexpected. It was about 1 ¼ hours to drive the 22 miles from the entrance to the summit. The views – I don’t think the pictures really can paint the picture.

Kalhaku Overlook

There are plenty of trails – day trips to overnights in the wilderness. A popular hike is the 11 mile full-day hike which ends at the Halemau’u Trailhead but begins at the Keonehe,ehe,e Trailhead 7 miles up the road. A downhill, walk – of course you need someone to drive you to the top. NPS suggests start early and another park visitor will take you to the top – sure . . . .

Leleiwi Overlook

I did walk the short Leleiwi Overlook Trail (.5 miles round trip. It provides a view of the cinder cones and cliffs of Healeaka’s Wilderness Area that you cannot really see from the road..

Heleakala VC EL 9,740 ft

The Haleakala Visitor Center (EL 9,740 ft) is a small stone building built in 1933. Staff were available here – manning a small bookstore. Several trails begin here.

The Pu’u’ula’ula Summit (EL 10,023 ft) features an enclosed viewing are. Although there was little wind on the mountain – there was a cool wind at the summit. The clouds below are ever-changing cloud formations and the views of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa (85 and 100 miles to the SSE) on the Big Island of Hawaii were a surprise. There is an astronomical observatory here also.

Haleakala Summit (EL 10,023 ft - looking to the Big Island of Hawaii
Mauna Kea is on the left - Manau Loa on the right - well above the clouds

The last snow was in 2007. It began at 7,000 ft – the entrance station.

On the trip down the road I stopped at the Kalahaku Overlook (on a dangerous curve up and only accessible on the road down). Again great views down the mountain. There is a short path to a viewpoint.

BOTTOM LINE: If you visit Maui – take an afternoon to drive to the summit of Pu’u’ula’ula in Haleakala National Park.

WEDNESDAY January 13, 2016

WEATHER: another Hawaii day

TRAVEL: Maui Beach Hotel – Starbucks (for WIFI and update pictures to the blog) – drive along the coastal road to the Kipahulu Unit of Haleakala National Park ( a 90 mile – 3 hour drive one way) I started the drive from Left at 8 am and arrived 10:40 am.

Most of the drive was on 50 miles of curvy winding road – average speed less than 25 mph and an unbelievable amount of one way bridges – over 40 . . . . at least 30 miles of this road is cut right along the side of the mountain.

The State of the Union was given last night – “story time with Barack Obama” Chris Christy . . . . “a state of denial” Ted Cruz . . . . “living in a fantasyland” Donald Trump vitriolic rhetoric? “we need a problem solver . . . not another political speech” Bill O’Reilly - and in the face of Iran’s capture of 2 small US Navy vessels and freeing the sailors, were going to close and give Iran a $100 billion deal - “the most powerful nation in the world . . . . the state of our Union is strong” Barack Obama.

Went to Starbucks for FREE WIFI – few electrical outlets and extremely slow download for pictures to the blog, but it saves connect hours to the phone. . Spent an hour here – got very little done. .

HALEAKALA National Park – Kipahulu District, Maui

After the 2 hour and 40 minute drive, I met some friendly and helpful rangers at the VC. These rangers must like what they do. If you come here – you really have to want to come here. Radio reception is sporadic, because of the mountains, so I bought a Israel Kamakawiwo
’ole CD Facing Future . . . . . many of the same songs on other IZ CDs but different arrangements . . . just what I needed for the drive back to Kahului.

The ride to this site is a little of Road America, reminiscent of travel in the Sierra’s and Sequoia National Park, and it could be a road in Jurrasic Park without the dinosaurs.

Healeakal NP
Pipiwai Trail - bamboo forest

The Pipiwai Trail (4 mile round trip) is a forested trail with some boardwalks. There is a 400 foot elevation change to arrive at the Makahiku Falls Ovelook (.5 miles one way). The trail continues another 1.5 miles through bamboo and guava forests to the base of Waimoku Falls. There are more than one Warning Signs about the hazards of the trail – it’s not all that bad.

The Kuloa Point Loop Trail (.5 mile loop) starts at the VC and provides view of the ocean and archeologic sites. There is a 80 ft change in elevation each way. Hikers can swim in the three pools below the waterfall.

Haleakal NP
Pipiwai Trail - boardwalk

Haleakal NP
End of the
Pipiwai Trail
Waimoku Falls

Healeakala NP
Pipiwai Trail

Haleakala NP - Kuloa Loop Point Trail the end of the
3 pools/falls at the ocean

Haleakala NP
Kuloa Point Loop Trail
1st fall and pool

This is a full day venture. Mostly because of almost 6 hours on the road. Parts of the bamboo forest are very dark at noon – I don’t think you want to be on this trail when the sun is setting. I saw plenty of 10-15 person tour buses – perhaps another way to enjoy the trails – without the drive – but I’d check to see if I could bring a cooler along for some refreshment on the trip back – leave the driving to the driver..

THURSDAY January 14, 2016

WEATHER: just like Hawaii

North Coast of Molaki'i
from Mankani Kai 10
seater airplane

Mule Barn - empty -
it was 3 pm and they
were most likely still on the trail

TRAVEL: Fly Leave Kahului, Maui 12:05pm –Arrive Hoolehua, Moloka’i 1:35 pm, car rental

Went to Starbucks before the flight - again for WIFI – incredibly slow – takes forever to download a picture for the blog. Hundreds of pictures will only post a small portion.

I met an interesting person on the Makani Kai Charter flight here – a 10 person plane – short flight – I gave the person a ride to a condo complex renting for 6 months – pleasant conversation.

St. Joseph Church
built by Father Damien
on the south shore of
Moloka'i

Not much going on in Moloka’i The main town is Kaunakikai, it is not very big. I don’t think there is a car dealership on the island. I did stop and see St. Joseph’s church built by Saint Damien. There was a monument there to a Civil War Captain – that worked with Father Damien. Found out later that Damien also built the Painted Church near Kaelekukua on the Big Island.

Drove to Kaluapapa Overlook - this could be a disaster but the mule tour to Kaluapapa National Historical Park, which I thought I had made a reservation for - well – NOT. So I decided that I would walk the 3.2 mile one way, 1,700 foot descent to Kaluapapa – booked a walk on line for 0745. Hope this works out – Yes, it is 1,700 feet uphill also.

Kalaupapa from the Kalaupap Overlook at the end of the road

Hotel Moloka'i reception

Hotel Moloka'i sunset from
the dinner table

Hotel Molokai: I finally found Hawai’i – for a vacation I think I could spend more than a few days here. Good hotel – it has FREE WIFI in the room – but cell service only on a bench – but free phone to the mainland - laid back island - not many people – this place has a nice room – on the ocean – there is a pool - views of Lana’i to the south – setting sun to the west. Tonight there was a very small Hawaiian Wedding on the grounds – a hula dancer – the blowing of the conch – there was live music – Hawaiian – a 3 man group - at the bar – dinner on the ocean - a traditional Hawaiian male did a dance to one of the band’s songs - locals come here – I found Hawai’i

FRIDAY January 15, 2016

WEATHER: Hawai’i temperature 70’s – cloudy on the northern shore, surf was up and by 3pm the sky cried. Climbing back up the Pali reminded of a scene from Hambruger Hill with the rain coming down, except that I wasn’t slipping all over the mud and people weren’t shooting at me- but there was mud and mule poop.

TRAVEL: Drove to the Mule Barn – no organization there – walked to the gate where it says DO NOT ENTER – thought there would be a group going doing and up – NO – Do It Yourself so I started down the trail. 3.2 miles one way and a descent of 1,700 feet and it still had mud and mule poop - like do think anybody would really clean it up - let nature run its course - It took me 1 hr and 40 minutes to get the bottom.

St. Damien contracted Hansen's Disease - and died at Kalaupapa, Moloka'i

265 KALAUPAPA National Historical Park, Moloka’i

Kalaupapa Trail - view on the way
down the trail

Kaluapapa Trail (7.4 miles round trip – START EL 1,700 END sea level) – the trail is referred to by several names and print literature and signs do not agree on its length and elevation.

Kalaupapa NHP ranks with one of those – you really have to want to visit. However, if on Moloka’i, I don’t see how you couldn’t want to visit here. Make reservations for the mule ride at least 2 weeks or more in advance. A lot less stress than the trail.

These waves were next to the trail on the way down.
Going up they some of the big ones were actually on the trail.
I wasn't expecting to be inundated with water up to the crotch
on the way up. It caused concern because now my shoes and
socks were wet for the arduous walk up.

Gravesite of St.
MArianne Cope
a 2nd Saint of
Moloak'i who worked
with St. Damien

When Hansen's disease (leprosy) was introduced to the Hawaiian Islands, King Kamehameha V banished all afflicted to the isolated Kalaupapa peninsula on the north shore of Molokai.

Since 1866, more than 8,000 people, mostly Hawaiians, have died at Kalaupapa. Once a prison, Kalaupapa is now refuge for the few remaining residents who are now cured, but were forced to live their lives in isolation. Not much more than a hundred people remain on in Kalaupapa – at least 40 are NPS personnel, another 40 work for the hospital, 10 work for Hawaii DOT to maintain the airport. – the remainder are islanders who were former patients. Most of these people are over 70. They are cured of Hansen’s disease but elderly, and some need constant care.

Kaluapapa National Historical Park HQ

Hansen’s disease is caused by bacteria. Hansen was a Norwegian who discovered this. It can be treated by pharmaceuticals. Additionally, at least 95% of humans have a genetic resistance to the disease. Therefore, the disease can only be contracted by 4-5% of the human race. It is transmitted through air and touch.

Kalaupapa National Historical Park is dedicated to preserving the memories and experiences of the people forcibly sent here so that valuable lessons may be learned. The park is now more than thirty years old, having been established December 22, 1980. The park's mission is to provide a well-maintained community that ensures the present patient-residents of the Kalaupapa Settlement may live out their lives peacefully and comfortably. The park supports education concerning Hansen's disease (leprosy), a disease shrouded in fear and ignorance for many centuries.

The Damien Tours Bus
parked in Kalawao.
This was the lunch stop.

This was confusing. I paid the $50 – lunch was not included. I have no idea what the mule tour costs, but lunch is included. The bus arrived about 1030 and got us back to the trail about 2pm – this is when I started the walk up.

To visit Kalaupapa, visitors must take the commercial tour offered through Damien Tours, which is owned and operated by a Kalaupapa resident. The tour provides stops at all major points of interest at Kalaupapa, including the NPS Kalaupapa Bookstore. The tour stops for lunch at Kalawao on the windward side of the peninsula with scenic views of the north shore cliffs and off-shore islands.

Kalaupapa The surf was up

Sure-footed Molokai mules are another way to visit. Contact Kalaupapa Rare Adventure, LLC for information about rates and reservations. The mule-ride operation is located on 'topside' Molokai off Highway 470. near Pala'au State Park and the Kalaupapa Overlook.

The walk back up took just about 2 hours – yes it was muddy – and the surf was up. For a while , I wasn’t sure I was on the right trail . At one point, about ..2 of a mile along the trail the waves crashed onto the shore and covered me with water to my crotch. A bit scary - if more waves would have continued to crash that high. It made the walk up a little more concerning – wet socks and boots and shorts.

It didn’t really matter, the sweat soaked my shirt within a ½ hour - a about one hour up the trail it started to rain. Even so, I think I’d do this again.

The rain stopped when I got to the other side of the island near Kaunakakai. I still think this is – Hawai’i. Much more to see on Moloaka’i - forget Maui – I could have stayed here for 2-3 more days.

Hotel Molokai

This was the Thursday night group
They were good
Note the Packer Fan

Hotel Moloka’i was overflowed with parked vehicles when I got back around 4:30 pm. Locals must have come to hear the group playing tonight – 4-8 pm. I took a shower, cleaned my shoes, did laundry, updated the blog and went to dinner around 7 pm. The group wasn’t that good – but it was Friday night – early crowd was full of Q-tips.

SATURDAY January 16, 2016

WEATHER: another day in Hawaii

Diamond Head from the air

TRAVEL: Drove from the Hotel Moloka’i to the airport, caught the 0945 Makani Kai flight to Honolulu, Oahu, called Charlie’s Taxi for a ride to the Hale Koa Hotel

Makani Kai airlines boarding in Moloka'i

No TSA checks when you fly Makani Kai and the terminal, if you want to call it that, is on the other side of the field in Honolulu.

Honolulu - Waikiki a land of concret towers - the green pace with the two short towers is the Hale Koa/Fort DeRussy
Really the only green space along Waikiki Beach - peaceful compared ot he commercial ventures cccupying the land

Hale Koa Hotel - Street Level View
Yes, there is an army guard at the entry point on the road

HALE KOA HOTEL – opened in 1975 as an all ranks, all services hotel. It’s mission is

“to provide a first class hotel and recreation facility at affordable prices for military members and their families.” It is owned by the Department of the Army on the site of Fort DeRussy.

Fort DeRussy was established in 1906, on a 72 acres parcel of land in Waikiki that was then, considered undesirable. At that time only the Mona Hotel was in Waikiki. Battery Randolph, now an army museum, was built as a coastal defense fort with walls 20 feet thick.

Hale Koa - mao

Today the Hale Koa is entirely self-supporting with salaries and operating expenses, to capital improvement projects all paid for with monies generated from the hotel’s operations.

This was my 3^rd stay here and it truly is the gem of Waikiki Beach because of it’s green space. Except for a small private part of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel everything in Waikiki is paved or built upon.

A stay at the Hale Koa is reason enough to visit Hawaii – truly a resort with several restaurants, bars, three swimming pools, a spa, a small PX and a variety of weekly entertainment ranging from a Luau, to comedy, to a Magic In Paradise Dinner show.

Tour, travel and rental car services are also offered at the hotel-resort.

The best thing about a
Wisconsin Bar is
when its in Hawaii

Of course the room was not ready yet at the Hale Koa so I walked to Snapper’s for a fish and chips lunch – been here before – ‘a Wisconsin bar – in Hawaii’ – back to the Hale Koa for an hour around the pool – checked in – and headed back to Snapper’s for the Green Bay – Arizona game.

A family member reminded me, via text, that January 8 was James Longstreet’s b-day – OK it’s on my calendar for next year.

Arizona 26 – Green Bay 20 – it was a good game - tied - but the Cardinals won it in overtime. End of the season.

FREE FAST WIFI and the best sleep at the Hale Koa since I started this trip.

SUNDAY January 17, 2016

WEATHER: another day in paradise

TRAVEL: walk to St. Augustine by the Sea for mass and cab rides to and from the Arizona Memorial. I should have rented a car for the money spent on cabs.

St. Augustine By The Sea
Waikiki

A walk of about a mile to 8 am mass at St. Augustine by the Sea, right across from Waikiki Beach and next to Cheeseburger In Paradise. The priest was polyneisan-Hawaiian. It appears that many Tongans attend here as well as many tourists. A large church – at least 250 in attendance. The group that provided the music for the mass was better than any I’ve heard here in Hawaii. They could make recordings, guitar, bass, rhythm, harmony. – all with a Hawaiian flavor. Really done well. The church is hosting a visit from a Pacific Cardinal at the noon mass and a seven choir concert this evening.

266 WORLD WAR II VALOR IN THE PACIFIC National Memorial. Pearl Harbor, Oahu

World War II Valor In The Pacific National Monument
Entrance

This was my 4^th visit here. The park sites are adjacent to the US Naval Base at Pearl Harbor. Hardly did I see a ranger, and the staff here mostly selling tour tickets, refreshments, audio headphone tours and bookstore items were helpful but not very knowledgeable.

The park has several areas to visit. Museums and a Navy Shuttle to the Arizona Memorial. I’ve been on the Arizona Memorial and the Battleship Missouri. I’ve never had the desire to walk through the USS Bowfin submarine – I guess several times through the sub moored in Manitowoc gave me the picture.

Central to the parks mission is memorializing those who fell during the attack on Oahu on December 7, 1941.

The USS Arizona Memorial is built over the sunken hull of the ship. It honors the 1,177 crewmen who died. The hull is the tomb of over 900 sailors who remain within. Oil still bubbles up from the Arizona.

Ford Island in Pearl Harbor - Battleship Row USS Arizona- right USS Misssouri- mooored left

The USS Utah Memorial honors 429 sailors who died when the ship capsized.

Japan's Concquest's in the Pacific Dec 1941 - Feb 1942

Other park sites include the Battleship Missouri Memorial and the Pacific Aviation Museum.

Direction of Japaanese Torpedo Attack on Ford Island
Battleship Row is to the right - they are named after states.
The 3 ships on the outside right to include the USS Arizona are not named here.

I did not take the shuttle to Ford Island, tickets are free but on a first come first served basis. I did visit the museums that tell the story of December 7^th and World War II in the Pacific.

267 HONOULIULI National Monument

Although not yet open to the public, Honouliuli National Monument will tell the history of internment, martial law, and the experience of prisoners of war in Hawai‘i during World War II. Honouliuli will be a place to reflect on wartime experiences and recommit ourselves to the pursuit of freedom and justice. I couldn’t find a ranger to tell me where this was located on Oahu. The NPS did have a passport stamp for the site.

In 2002, the Honouliuli site was discovered by volunteers from the Japanese Cultural Center of Hawai'i. Since that time, Honouliuli has become the subject of scholarship and awareness campaigns.

President Barack Obama announced the designation of Honouliuli National Monument by Presidential Proclamation on February 19, 2015. Honouliuli National Monument is a new national park unit without formal services and programs at this time.

In the coming months and years, you will see more notices regarding the new monument. Honouliuli National Monument is managed by staff of the National Park Service Pacific West Region. I couldn’t find a ranger to tell me where this was located on Oahu. The NPS did have a passport stamp for the site.

MONDAY January 18, 2016

WEATHER: another day in Hawaii

TRAVEL: Fly Left Honolulu, Oahu Hawaii 4:45 pm - Arrived Pago Pago, American Samoa, rented a car

Updated the blog and breakfast -visited the pool area again for an hour of sun. Checked out of the Hale Koa at noon – stored my bags – it was a Monday - the Army Museum at Fort DeRussy was closed, read and caught a cab to the Inter Island Terminal around 3:00 pm. Had to go through customs – you need a passport to get to American Samoa.

The Hawaiian Airlines flight was better than expected. It’s the only commercial carrier flying to American Samoa – there are two flights leaving Honolulu weekly. Scheduled for 4:45 pm it took off at 5:10 pm. It was a 5 hour and 25 minute flight. I was served a meal and haven’t ever been charged for a bag by Hawaiian. I sat next to a NPS employee – a Samoan – who works as a dive enforcement officer for NPS. A friendly guy – perhaps I’ll run into him again over the next few days.

Sadie's By The Sea entrance

Arrival at Pago Pago (Pahn-go Pahn-go) International Airport on Tutuila Island, about 9:35 pm Samoan Time – you go back an hour from Hawaii time. Very humid and you have to go through customs again. The airport seemed more like a Mardi Gras – not celebrations - but plenty of people – welcoming those coming home – and probably waiting to fly to Hawaii on the plane that just got in. I found Avis, who pawned me and several others to a service called World Wide Car Rental – we’ll see how this works. Car rental in Samoa is expensive. I have a Toyota RAV4 – smells like garbage – actually I think the windows were left open in the rain – I wondered why the ‘little tree’ air freshener was hanging from the mirror - on second thought the seats are covered - this is the Pacific - ner the equator - I think it's called the smell of mold.

It was dark and I was tired but after 4 round-a-bouts, a right turn and 20 minutes along the coast road I found Sadie’s By The Sea.

Sadie’s By the Sea. The AC is run by a remote and runs only when the key card is in a slot – similar to the condo in Kona – the AC remote was unique. It was humid but cooled quickly. A large room with a king bed, TV, FREE WIFI, microwave, frig, and bath. I went to bed.

TUESDAY January 19, 2016

WEATHER: partly cloudy to mostly sunny LOW 81 HIGH 91s

TRAVEL: National Park of American Samoa, on the island of Tutuila

Sadies By the Sea - beach

Sadies's By the Sea
Pago Pago Harbor - view from dining room

Sadie’s By the Sea, restaurant, bar, beach, pool . . . . . . breakfast at the on-site Goat Island Café was serenaded by alternating Frank Sinatra and Louis Armstrong songs – this place can’t be all that bad I am here for 4 days.

268 NATIONAL PARK OF AMERICAN SAMOA

American Samoa, the only U.S. territory south of the Equator, consists of 10 rugged, highly eroded volcanic islands (five inhabited) and two coral atolls (one inhabited). The land area of the territory is 76 square miles.

American Samoa - Pago Pago Harbor - formed by the collapse of a volcanic crater
Tot the right (white) are the tuna ships and the Starkist Tun factory
Tot the left is the Port of Pago Pago

The islands are located 2,600 miles southwest of Hawaii and 1,800 miles northwest of New Zealand, between Fiji and Tahiti. The Samoan chain stretches east to west for more than 300 miles between 13 and 15 degree south latitude (below the Equator). It is just east of the International Date Line, in the time zone that is one hour earlier than Hawaii.

American Samoa - Tutulia Island - Villages and Trail Heads and national LandmarksN
6-Fagasa Pass Trail 1-Pono Island Trail 10-Tuafanua Trail 2-Lower Saima Ridge Trail
4-Blunts Trail 3- Fagatele Bay Trail 12-Le'ala Shoreline Trail

Flying here was the first time I crossed the equator.

NP of American Samoa Visitor Center entrance on the right
Located on the second floor of this building

The National Park of American Samoa is open 24-hours per day, year round. The Visitor Center, park store, and headquarters are open on weekdays from 8:00 am to 4:30 pm. However, they are closed on weekends and federal holidays. Yesterday, Monday 18 Jan was Martin Luther King Day. They were closed. Don’t visit here on a weekend – closed. Sunday is a day of worship – everything is closed – there are plenty of churches.

It took me a while to find the VC – passed it on the road twice. It is on the second floor of a building next to a Toyoto dealer and across the street from a gas station, but I did find the park.

American Samoa
Sign at Fagasa Pass

American Samoa
Fagasa Pass Trailhead

Turning down a road with a sign National Park of Samoa, it took me to a trailhead identified as Fagasa. Not having a map or know how long the trail was, and without water, I didn’t hike the trail but headed back down the road. This was Fagasa Pass. I found out later that this is the Mount ‘Alava Trail – a 7 mile roundtrip hike through the rain forest to a coconut and banana plantation

Reaching the main coastal road (American Samoa DOT saves money by not having road signs) I turned left until I found another sign saying National Park of Samoa. I turned left and headed up a road and eventually reached two ‘remote’ coastal villages Afono and Vatia, on the other side of the island. I also found two sets of two park employees policing up the road. I knew I was in the park, they were very friendly and told me the road dead-ended and the VC was back in town ‘on the second floor . . . look for the flags . . . next to tire . . . . across from Pago Way Service Station’ I continued down the road

This park is relatively new and remotely located - ready for an exploring spirit. I eventually did find the VC and a ranger there provided a day hike trail map and suggested several trails to walk. The ranger indicated that the park gets about 3,000 visitors annually, including some people from 20 cruise ships that make port here in a year’s time.

Driving the coast road, most of the people live on the coast - the rest is mountains, I discovered a fairly large port/harbor with a Starkist Tuna Factory – it’s a fish processing plant – I didn’t stop to take a picture of Charlie the Tuna. It appears fishing is a major part of the economy.

I stopped at the airport to see if Avis would give me a 25% discount because of my USAA affiliation – the agent there was clueless – only an order processor – same guy that pawned me off to World Wide Car Rental yesterday. It cost $3 to park and no discount.

I found several schools, a high school near the airport and another near Pago Pago. The kids in all the schools, wear uniform white shirts/blouses and the traditional lava lava (sarong) skirt. The pattern/color of the lava lava is unique to the school. School appears to let out around 2 pm they either walk or take many of the local buses home.

There is one ACE Hardware store that sells everything from nuts and bolts to appliances, two McDonald’s, at least one car dealership but few cars. Most of the homes are not air conditioned. The island power plant appears to be fueled by oil. There are no chain restaurants or hotels/motels. I did see one police cruiser and a motorcycle cop.

Sadie’s By The Sea – in the evening it appears the a mix of 50’s to 80’s is played in the Goat Island Café – mostly early 60’s

WEDNESDAY January 20, 2016

WEATHER: another day in Samoa, sun comes up around 6 am, sets around 7pm.

TRAVEL: American Samoa

268 NATIONAL PARK OF AMERICAN SAMOA

I took the same road as yesterday through Afono and Vatia to the end of the road.

Polo Island Trail
This is the road to the trail head

Polo Islnd Trail
End of the road 3 signs

Polo Island Trail – a short .1 mile trail. Signs warn of unfriendly dogs. The ranger said to drive on the unimproved road eventually I did arrive at the end of the road and three interpretive signs.

The interpretive signs at the end of the road covered the swiftlet – a small bird that nests in caves, the breadfruit and the laufala – art of weaving baskets and cloth.

It was a short trail through the rain forest to a rocky beach.

Polo Island Trail
rocky beach

Polo Island Trail
Start of the trail

Polo Island Trail
End of the Trail

Tuafnua Trail
Several Hermit crab were
on the trail going up.
This one decided on a
plastic cup shell.

Tuafanua Trailhead - marked with
orange ribbon

Tuafanua Trail – a 2.2 mile round-trip from Vatia Village through tropical rain forest to the coast. This is a “up-down two-time” trail. The route up has 20 switchbacks covering at least 400 feet of ascent. The steep descent is down seven ladders (steps) with ropes to a quiet, rocky beach. I only lost my balance once on the way down – thank goodness I was holding on the rope. The trial ends on a rocky beach with a different view of Polo Island and Vai’ava Strait.

There are plenty of little black lizards called skinks, on the trail and birds in the trees. The lower part of the trail had a number of hermit crabs – reminded me of the trail to the beach on St. John’s, Virgin Islands.

Tuafanua Trail this was the
last rope ladder. Coming
down I slipped to the right - left on the
picture. Good thing I had hold
of the rope.

Tuafanua Trail
This was the end of the 1st rope
ladder and start of the 2nd
looking up.

Tuafanua Trail
end of the the trail

The route back is up the seven ladders with ropes and down the trail with 20 switchbacks.

It took a little over an hour to walk this trail. It was hot and humid.

The trailhead is just before the Vatia School (Mount ‘Alava Elementary).

Tuafnua Trail - the beach and the reverse view of Vai'ava Strait

Lower Saima Ridge Trail - Interpretive Marker

Lower Saima Ridge Trail – is a .4 mile round-trip - at first I thought it was longer but it only took a half hour to walk round-trip so a ½ mile is probably correct Billed as an interpretive trail – I didn’t find much interpretation except to find the archeological site of an overgrown ancient star mound.

Lower Saima Ridge Trail
Vai'ava Strait National Landmark & Polo Island
from the top of the trail

There are views of the northeast coastline and the Vai’ava Strait National Natural Landmark. The route to the rocks was steep and slippery. I didn’t have a walking sitck for balance and there were two people resting on the rocks below. I didn’t make the final descent and headed back up. Looking north you can see the tall and skinny Pola Island, a nesting place for seabirds.

I headed back to the hotel, had lunch at McDonald’s and intended to read and sit around the pool. I was beat – I laid down and fell asleep – rain forest hikes drained me of energy pretty good.

Sadie’s By The Sea – the WIFI code expired, I got a new from the desk – this time the connection for downloads is much slower – like Starbuck’s on Maui - slooooow

American Samoa National Natural Landmarks

THURSDAY January 21, 2016

WEATHER: mostly cloudy in the morning 80’s, short rain between 10 and 11 am

TRAVEL: Jean B. Haydon Museum – US Post Office – NP of American Samoa VC – Aua (fruit bat tree) – attempted to find the Blunts Point Trail 2x but could not find the IBM Laundromat where the trail starts – attempted to find the Fagatele Bay Trail but missed the turn – it started to rain - returned to Sadie’s By The Sea

Sadie’s By The Sea – WIFI unreliable and slow this morning, lost about 1 ½ hours worth of updates to the blog. WIFI hasn’t been the same since the code changed.

This morning’s breakfast music was a mix of Richie Valens “Donna,” Fats Domino “Blueberry Hill,” Frankie Avalon, “Venus,” Brian Hyland, “Sealed With A Kiss,” The Shirelles, “Dedicated To The One I Love.” I was waiting for “Get A Job” but it seems a good number of Samoan businessmen meet here for breakfast – wearing a lava lava, long sleeve shirt and tie, and leather sandals - retirees appear more casual they wear flip flops.

America Samoa’s islands make up the eastern part of the Samoan Archipelago. The people who live here are Polynesian. Today, Samoan’s are regarded as the largest full blooded Polynesian race left in the Pacific.

Jean P. Haydon Museum

Archeologists suggest that the early Polynesians traveled from Southeast Asia into the Pacific, populating the islands of the western Pacific, from Papua, New Guinea to Samoa and Tonga. It was from Samoa and Tonga some time later that Polynesians migrated east and populated the Cook Islands, Niue and Tahiti before heading north to Hawaii and south to Aotearoa (New Zealand) on the last legs of the great Polynesian migration.

Jean P. Haydon Museum – free - not much here but some artifacts, art, and photos of American Samoa

Stopped by the NP of American Samoa VC again - met a young female ranger from the Pacific Northwest, and Bert who was not diving today.

Fruit Bats in tree near Aua

Fruit Bats

I did drive to Aua and found the “fruit bat tree” along the road that the ranger on Tuesday recommended to stop and see. Ok – so I saw a bunch of bats hanging in a tree.

Blunts Point Trailhead

Blunts Point Trial – Couldn’t locate the trailhead of a .6 mile trail located between Faga’alu and Utulei on the coast road. This is not a trial in the National Park of American Samoa. The trailhead is supposed to be next IBM Laundromat – tried twice could not find it. About 5:30 pm I went out and found the Blunts Point Trailhead – there is a laundromat but it has no name. I think I’ll walk up it tomorrow morning.

Fagatele Bay Trail is another 1 mile round-trip trail located outside the park on private land that leads to the Fagatele Bay Marine Sanctuary. The female ranger has been here and confirmed it exsits but I could not find the trailhead. You have to ask permission from the family at the end of the road to hike past their property through the gate.

Le’ala Shoreline Trail also located outside the park is a 3.2 mile round-trip that begins in Vailoatai Village and follows the coast line through thick vegetation with occasional views of the Le’ala shoreline. It is described as a steep trail traveling in and out of ancient volcanic craters and comes to an end at the junction with the Fagatele Bay Trail. Sounded like more than I wanted to tackle today..

Star Mounds were where Samoans built up a site to snare pigeons.

‘Aunu’u Island – Decided not to drive here and catch a local alia boat for a trip to ‘Aunu’u National Natural Landmark is located on the island . There is a ½ mile trail. The female ranger kind of said it is not worth the trip. Much of the water surrounding this island is part of the National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa. A NPS brochure describes how park divers (Bert and his buddy Ian) treat an invasive starfish that eats/destroys coral.

Finished reading “The Recapture of Guam.” The book is an official USMC monograph written in 1954 by Major O. R. Lodge, USMC. A narrative that is a bit complicated to follow because of the lack of maps referenced but not included in the printing I purchased (probably on my last visit to Hawaii at the World War II Valor in the Pacific NHP bookstore). – it is a bit too detailed – much worse than reading any Civil War battle narrative. Looks like Lodge wanted to be the sure that the generals and battalion commanders did all the leading – mostly unnamed Marines and Japanese soldiers die. It was the 50’s – I hope he got promoted. At any rate – I wanted to read it to provide background for my upcoming visit to Guam.

WIFI extremely slow tonight. Same as some RV parks – way too many guests signing in . . . . . . sometimes it won’t even connect. The best night day was Tuesday – just as fast as at home.

FRIDAY-SATURDAY January 22-23, 2016

WEATHER: American Samoa 80’s

TRAVEL: American Samoa - Fly Leave Pago-Pago American Samoa 11:47 pm – Arrive Honolulu, Oahu Hawaii 6:05 am, through Customs & Immigration , cab to Hale Koa Hotel

Sadie’s By The Sea checkout time is noon. It would be ½ day’s rate to keep the room until 6 pm. I decided to keep the room for ½ a day. The plane is scheduled to leave atl 11:20 pm and the airport is open air – not comfortable – no bars or restaurants – pretty bare bones. Got up early to use WIFI and update the blog – it was good until 6 am – then is all but stopped – intermittent service – not good enough to update the blog.

Bright Side – this place has the fluffiest towels I’ve encountered yet on this trip and the beer is probably the least expensive. A bottle of water or a cup of coffee and coffee cost more than a 2 bottles of beer. The local brand is Vailima

This is the trailhead
looking down
Did I say there is a
'dog problem' in
American Samoa
They are everywhere

Blunts Point Trail
Looks like the trail ends
here - but it didn't

Blunts Point Trial – Found the trailhead last night . A .6 mile trail located between Faga’alu and Utulei on the coast road. This is not a trial in the National Park of American Samoa. The trailhead is next to an unnamed Laundromat.

Located at the top of this trail are the remains of a gun battery that protected Pago Pago Harbor in 1941.

The trail starts out like a jeep trail makes a turn and appears to end at a holding tank of some sort. An attempt to go straight, I wasn’t the first to try it, told me this is the wrong way. The trail continues around the tank between it’s fence and the cliff side to a set of stairs the continue up. Here I found the fist gun.

Blunts Point Trail the fence is
to the right - a cliff to the left
but steps if you walk between them

Blunts Point Trail
the 1st gun

Stairs continued on up so I climbed them and found a second gun and some girls listening to music – apparently it’s semester finals and they were killing time after an exam.

Blunts Point Trail - this is the 2nd gun
Note the uniform lava lava worn by the girl on the left

The stairs continued up. I past some concrete pillars but when the trail decided to head down back into the rain forest – I turned around and headed back. The walk up and down took about 50 minutes.

The Japanese advance in the Pacific never reached Samoa.

TIMELINE - American Samoa

Feb 14, 1872 – Commander Richard W. Meade, USN commanding USS Narragansett, anchored in Pago Pago Harbor to investigate the possibility of establishing a naval station.

Mar 2, 1872 - the first American-Samoa Treaty was signed giving the US the exclusive right to establish a coaling station on Pago Pago Harbor.

Feb 19, 1900 – President William McKinley put Tutuila and all the Samoan islands east of 171 degrees longitude under the authority of the USN. The Sec of the Navy named this “US Naval Station Tutuila.”

Jul 7, 1911 – the islands of Tutuila, ‘Aunu’u, and Manu’a formerly US Naval Station Tutuila were designated as “American Samoa”.

Feb 17, 1941 – a double anti-torpedo net was extended from Blunts Point to Whale Rock

Jul 10, 1941 – the 1^st Samoa Battalion, USMC Reserve was organized. All recruits enlisted as privates and were paid 70 cents per day with a uniform allowance of $5. After 4 months their pay was raised to $1 per day.

Jan 11, 1942 – a Japanese submarine surfaced about 10,000 years off the coast of Tutuila between Southworth Point and Fagasa Bay and fired about 15 projectiles from its 5.5 inch deck gun. The fire was not returned. This was the only Japanese attack on Tutuila during WW II.

During WWII Tutuila was home to ::

USMC Advanced Jungle Warfare Training Center

Tafuna Air Base – Marine Air Group 13 (MAG13) – now Pago Pago International Airport.

USN Mobile Hospital No.3 (MOB3) – near Mapusaga

Jan 15, 1944 – the 1^st Samoa Battalion USMC Reserve was disbanded.

Dec 31, 1949 – The US Naval Station Tutuila was disestablished.

July 1, 1951 – American Samoa and all Navy property were transferred to the Department of the Interior from the Navy Department.

Buses like this are everywhere
Each one if different
Gives a whole new meaning to
"owner-operator"

American Samoa – Cultural Event - I had a rental car with the island smell of mold in it but open window, AC and some Glade helped. Another mode of transportation is riding the bus. The buses often blast music so loudly that talking on a cell phone isn’t possible. They are made out of pick-up trucks and each bus is a work of art, or at least, classic kitsch. They run up and down the island all day long, quit around 6pm and don’t run on Sunday. The local name is aiga (aye-enga) bus, which means family bus and they are individually owned and painted. You hop on, throw your money on the dash board as you leave ($1.00 in town, $1.50 to anywhere else). When you get to your stop, if there is no pull cord, rap on the ceiling or tap your quarter on the window. People tuck quarters in their ears since most lava lava (sarongs) don’t have pockets. The bus is a cheap way to get around, ask anyone for the current local price and directions if it’s your first time on the bus. The name of the village the bus is going to is usually posted on the front. There are bus stops in town, but anywhere else just wave when you see the bus and they’ll usually stop.

Vaitogi - I should
have asked someone
to explain the legend

I tried again to find the Fagatele Bay Trail but was unsuccessful. I didn’t have a map and believe I was always taking the left one road early. The turn left is after you go through Fatiga. I did find Vaitogi, a Turtle and Shark Legend Site (no idea what the legend is). The beach had a WWII pill box and a Rotary sponsored lifesaving ring.

Vaitogi - Pillbox

I went to the US Post Office (the only one on the island) and got a medium flat rate box. I noticed the envelope I picked up yesterday was wet – condensation from the water bottles in my pack transferred to the envelope. Ouch! - - - - - it also transferred to my National Park Passport Book page – now some of my Hawaii and Arizona and California passport date stamps look like blurs of green ink. Oh well this blog documents my visits.

Vaitogi - Rotary sponsored
Life Saving Station

Vaitogi - there were dogs here also

Stayed the extra half day at Sadie’s By The Sea. Packed, around the pool, read, somehow could nap. Check-out is 6 pm. Dinner at Sadie's By The Sea, then to the airport for the long wait and long flight - maybe I slept a little.

After the flight from Pago Pago to Honolulu. I caught a cab to the Hale Koa Hotel. Made a reservation for Friday night so I’d have a room a 6:30 Saturday morning arrival – did laundry – updated the blog – this is the best FREE WIFI yet - a day of rest.

SUNDAY-MONDAY January 24-25, 2016

WEATHER: another day in Hawaii – cooler than American Samoa

TRAVEL: Fly Leave Honolulu, Oahu Hawaii 2:45 pm – Arrive Guam :6:40 pm. Cross the International Date Line – arrival on Monday 6:40 pm - lose a day. Car rental and drive to Hilton Guam Resort, Tumon Bay, Guam. Flight will leave about 15 minutes late.

SUNDAY

St. Augustine's inside

8am Mass at St. Augustine By The Sea – about a one mile walk through Waikiki Beach – this church is right across the road from the beach – high rent property – right across the street is the beach named for Prince Jonah Kuhio (Kuhio Beach Park). Same musical group very good – a different priest – the “one body” reading from Paul.

Prince Jonah Kuhio

Kuhio Beach Park and the prince has an good story.

Finished reading 2 short books, “Mark Twain In Hawaii: Roughing It in the 1860’s” by Samuel Langhorne Clemens “Mark Twain.” Twain came to Hawaii in 1866 to spend four months as a correspondent for California’s Sacramento Union. Twain drew on his articles to supplement this narrative published in 1872. Written in a light touch his humorist touch is evident as he describes Oahu, Hawaiian history, religion, legends, visits to Kealakekua, Honaunau -“The City of Refuge,” walks up the slopes of Kilauea and into the crater to the edge of the boil, and finally a visit to Maui and a walk up and through the 10,000 ft of Heleakala.

Also read “A Brief History of Hawaii” by George Armitage – truly brief - about 8,000 words in pamphlet style. If you visit Hawaii these two short reads are better than any travel articles you may find about the islands and their history.

Heard “Over the Rainbow” again today – Hawaii Aloha . . . . . . .

MONDAY

Arrived in Guam about 6:45 pm Monday night January 26^th – 3,800 miles SW of Hawaii. Compared to American Samoa, Guam (and on second thought maybe slow is good) is light years ahead – a modern airport – very little broken English – customs did not make me feel like I was visiting a foreign country – great service from AVIS - long flight 7 hours 45 minutes. Arrived at the Hilton Guam Resort & Spa around 8 pm, bought some Asahi Dry (Japanese I first had this beer in Chitose) and tuned into the 1^st quarter of Arizona – Carolina game. Final score Carolina 49 – Arizona 15. Based on the 1^st quarter it was a slaughter.

TUESDAY January 26, 2016

WEATHER: 80’s a shower around noon, mostly cloudy to partly sunny the rest of the day

TRAVEL: T Stall Newman Visitor Center (named after the park's 1st Superintendent), Naval Base Guam

Hilton Guam Reosrt & Spa Beach

Hilton Guam
Resort & Spa

Hilton Guam Resort & Spa. A very nice resort with resort prices. I will not have time to enjoy the facilities.

Unfortunately, my time here in Guam is going to be all too short. In my planning, I did not consider the loss of a day and an early morning departure.

Naval Base Guam
Adjacent to the T. Stall Newman VC
I stopped by the Navy Exchange

My dad was in the Navy and stationed here during World War II. From what I can gather he was a land based sailor with duties of refueling the fleet. He also told me stories of how he ,although a sailor, went out on search and destroy patrols, with the Marines during World War II. It was still a brutal fight. Although, formal Japanese Army resistance had ceased on Guam there were thousands of Japanese soldiers till hiding in the rain forests.

269 WAR IN THE PACIFIC National Historic Park

There just wasn’t enough time in the day to see it all.

War In The Pacific - Asan Beach

War in the Pacific National Historical Park was established to commemorate the bravery and sacrifice of those participating in the campaigns of the Pacific theater of World War II and to conserve and interpret outstanding natural, scenic, and historic values and objects on the island of Guam for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations.

Asan Beach
50th Anniversary Memorial

The T.Stall Visitor Center is a new museum with exhibits featuring the latest technology, gripping personal stories, museum artifacts, and multiple language support. needs. The VC is located just outside of the Naval Base Guam. If I would have researched and thought ahead I may have been able to get a room here.

The VC theater offers a compelling 10-minute movie, The Battle for Guam, in 4 languages (English, Japanese, Mandarin, and Korean). The film is captioned for hearing impaired visitors. I had a private showing. Mostly Japanese and Chinese visit.

The Park has several units identifying USMC objectives during the recapture of Guam. These units are not gated and some are considered a bit remote.

Asan Beach Unit - In June 1944, the United States Armed Forces were ready to retake the island of Guam. The Japanese also knew of this plan. Most of the permanent and elaborate defense installations were placed at Tumon Bay. On June 16, 1944 US cruisers, battleships, and aircraft bombed and shelled Asan and Agat Beaches. The Japanese now knew where they planned to attack.

The US attack was supposed to take place on June 18, 1944 but was delayed because of the battle for Saipan and the naval battle of the Philippine Sea, known as the Marianas Turkey Shoot. The new invasion date was scheduled for July 21, 1944. This decision also allowed preparation for an Army division to be part of the invasion. Japanese defensive positions were placed on top and on both sides of Asan and Adelup Points. But the previous defenses in Tumon Bay were left because there was not time to move them. The fortifications of Japanese beach defenses were extensive.

Obstacles and mines were placed on the fringing reef. The beaches and immediately inland were filled with obstacles and tank traps. Further inland were machine gun positions, pillboxes, heavy weapons, artillery and coastal defense guns. And higher inland to shoot down on the beaches were machine guns, heavy weapons, and artillery.

Asan Beach Map - this was the north landing beach of the 3rd Marine Division
if you look closely you can read the code names for the landing beaches for the regiments of the Division

Asan Beach - July 21, 1944

The lead elements of the 3rd Marine Division crossed the reef from 200 to 500 yards offshore and landed on Asan Beach, which was defended by the Japanese 320th Independent Infantry Battalion and naval troops manning the coastal defense guns. The plan was to fight between Adelup and Asan Points, referred to as "the devil's horns". From east to west, two battalions of the 3rd US Marine Regiment landed on Beach Red 1, one battalion of the 3rd US Marine Regiment landed on Beach Red 2, three battalions of the 21st US Marines came ashore on Beach Green, in the middle, and three battalions of the 9th US Marines landed on Beach Blue adjacent to Asan Point.

Asan Beach today

The 3rd Marine Division operation order called for the three regiments to land abreast, capture the high ground immediately inland, and prepare for further operations to the east and southeast. Marines assaulted beaches, took Orote Peninsula, and the land behind Asan and the Force Beachhead Line from Adelup Point to Mt. Chachao/Mt. Tenjo. The Army's 77th Infantry Division fought in Agat, and took Mt. Alifan and the Force Beachhead Line from Facpi Point to Mt. Tenjo. The Asan area was secured on July 28th, but it took until August 10, 1941 to eliminate all organized resistance on the rest of Guam.

About 55,000 young Marines and Army soldiers participated in the battle for Guam. 1,866 American

servicemen were killed in action or died of wounds during twenty one days of combat. Because of their sacrifice we now enjoy freedom on Guam today.

American Advance July 30, 1944

Agat Bay Unit - Ga'an Point in Agat was part of the southern landing site of the United States forces in the liberation of Guam on July 21, 1944. The southern landing area encompassed from Bangi Island to Apaca Point. This area was strategically chosen in order to help secure Orote Peninsula to the north.

Orote Peninsula was important because of the airfield and entrance to Apra Harbor as a supply port. The plan was to overtake Ga'an Point, where the entire beach front at Agat could be used to offload supplies and equipment that were critical for the inland advance.

Agat Bay Landing Site - Japanese Coastal Defense Gun

The Japanese 38th Regimental Combat Team had command post headquarters at Mt. Alifan and the Japanese forces heavily fortified the area from Facpi Point to Agat Bay. The Japanese defense weapons placed at Ga'an Point included a single-barrel, Japanese, dual purpose 25 mm machine cannon and a 200 mm short barrel naval gun, a 25mm machine cannon, and a double-barreled anti-aircraft gun. The Japanese also had extensive defenses consisting of numerous pillboxes built in coral outcroppings, and concrete blockhouses that held a 75mm and 37mm gun to fire upon the beaches. A Japanese inscription can be seen today in the concrete blockhouse.

On July 21, 1944, the first wave of the Southern Landing Force invaded Guam in Agat. The young men in the assault were part of the 1st Provisional Marine Brigade, which consisted of the 4th and 22nd Marine Regiments. The 4th Marines were to storm onto beaches designated White 1 and 2, establish a beachhead, protect the flank of the brigade, and then proceed to secure Mt. Alifan. The 22nd Marines, after landing at beaches designated Yellow 1 and 2, were to secure Agat Village and drive north and cut off Orote Peninsula.

In 1944 Agat was centered more to the north and no buildings remain from the original village.

The next wave of soldiers were the 305th Regimental Combat Team, part of the 77th Army Infantry Division, but temporarily attached to the 1st Marine Brigade for the initial assault. The 305th Regimental Combat Team landed later that day at 1400. They waded ashore because there were no LVT's (Landing Vehicle Tractors) available. The 305th Regimental Combat Team was to make a passage of lines of the 4th Marine Regiment and protect that sector of the beachhead.

Agat Beach Japanese Positions
on the beach

The fighting at Agat was severe, particularly during the first night as the Japanese 38th Regiment launched a major counterattack. Ultimately, it took 3 days to firmly establish the southern beachhead.

Agat Beach today

On July 24, 1944, the reported losses of US forces numbered near 1,000. The island itself was not declared secure until August 10, 1944. The total casualties for the Japanese forces from July 21 - August 10 were estimated over 10,900.

Asan Bay Overlook was completed in 1994 in conjunction with the 50th Anniversary commemoration of the Liberation of Guam, Asan Bay Overlook serves as a memorial to those that lost their lives or suffered atrocities during the war. This unit features beautiful views of the sea-side villages of Asan and Piti and a perspective of the landing beaches used by Marines during the battle. The Asan Bay Overlook includes landscaped walkways, established view sheds, and several commemorative bronze sculptures which depict the events on Guam during the World War II Japanese occupation and battle in 1944.

Asan Beach Overlook - The Asan Beach Unit is the nicely trimmed looking park straight out - that was the landing site

Asan Bay Overlook Memorial Wall

The Asan Bay Overlook Memorial Wall contains the names of 1,880 U.S. servicemen who died in the 1941 defense of Guam against the attacking Japanese armed forces and those who died retaking the island from Japan in 1944 along with the names of the 1,170 people of Guam who died and 14,721 who suffered atrocities of war from 1941.

Piti Guns Unit – I never found this place. I think there is a trail but I did not find it. The Piti Guns Unit is the site of three Vickers type Model 3 140mm coastal defense guns. The Japanese manufactured these Model 3 coastal defense guns in 1914. During the Japanese Occupation from 1941-1944, the Japanese built up defensive positions on Guam. The Chamorro population was forced to work in building up these defenses, and did so here at Piti Guns. Imagine if you can the dense vegetation that existed here at the time and how hard it would have been to not only hike up the side of this steep terrain but also carry thousands of pounds of steel.

These guns were strategically placed in what was in 1944 a village consisting mostly of rice paddies. This area was chosen with consideration to the firing range of the guns. These guns have a firing range of close to 10 miles and were intended for use against ships and landing craft. When the United States Armed Forces came to retake the island on July 21, 1944 these guns were not fully operational. Consequently, not one of the three coastal defense guns was ever fired. But, these guns are representative of the type of weapons used by the Japanese on Guam for the fortification efforts.

Fonte Plateau - Japanese Comunications
Bunkers on the reverse slope
This pull off was not marked, luckily I had seen
a picture and recognized the bunker

Fonte Plateau Unit - Once a Japanese naval communications center, Fonte Plateau unit is
located on Nimitz Hill, overlooking Asan Bay. Site of one of the more bitter battles between the U.S. Marines and the Japanese, the high land of Fonte Plateau, later renamed to Nimitz Hill, was once the CINCPAC headquarters for Admiral Chester Nimitz. This is now part of the Naval Base.

Mt. Chachao/ Mt. Tenjo Unit provided the Japanese defenders with a view of United States troops landing at Asan Beach and a scenic overview of Apra Harbor and Orote Point. The unimproved trail leads to foxholes, trenches, and a World War I American gun emplacement. Not enough time to drive and walk the trail

Mt. Alifan Unit is the site of a former Japanese command post, contains the remains of bomb craters, fox holes, and trenches. The slopes of these hills saw intense battles between United States Marines and the defending Japanese forces. This area is undeveloped, making access difficult. I did not attempt to locate Mt. Alifan.

Based on my reading of 1954 USMC monograph of “The Recapture of Guam.”

A SHORT TIMELINE OF THE WAR IN THE PACIFIC

Dec 7, 1941 - Japan’s attack on Pearl Harbor

Jun 4-7, 1942 - Battle of the Coral Sea

Aug 1942 – Feb 1943 Guadalcanal Campaign

Jul 1942 – Aug 1943 New Guinea Campaign

Feb-Mar 1944 Marshall Islands Recaptured

Jun 19-29, 1944 Battle of the Philippine Sea Jun – Aug 1944 Marianas Campaign

Feb – Mar 1945 Iwo Jima Campaign

Apr – Jun 1945 Okinawa Campaign

Jun-Aug 1945 B-29 Bombings of Japan

The capture of Guam was the final phase of a much larger campaign that included the seizure of Saipan and Tinian. It was possession of all three islands that gave the US such an overwhelming strategic advantage in the remaining year of WW II.

Over 50,000 Japanese fighting men gave their lives in the defense of the three islands.

The US assault force numbered 54,891 at Guam, 67,545 at Saipan, from which 42,290 men were drawn for the Tinian landing. Records show that more than a fifth of the total assault troops became casualties in 54 days of organized combat between 15 June and 10 August 1944. Of the 24,439 casualties 4,679 were killed in action. For every American killed , ten Japanese lost their lives.

Of primary importance was the development of B-29 airfields on the three islands. Raids launched from these airfields brought total war to Japan. The naval base developed on Guam was capable of supporting 1/3 of the Pacific Fleet.

The Guam island population by August 31, 1945 had swelled to over 220,000., with 21,838 Guamanians, 65,095 Army, 77,911 Navy, and 58,712 Marine troops.

WEDNESDAY January 27, 2016

WEATHER: it really didn’t matter - inside a building or on a plane all day

TRAVEL: o-dark-thirty wakeup - Fly Korean Airlines Leave Guam 4:20 am – Arrived at Osaka, Japan 7:10 am (3 hr 50 minutes) - LAYOVER in Osaka of about 2 ½ hours. –

There is a one hour time difference between Guam and Osaka.

Left Osaka 9:30 am - Arrived Incheon-Seoul, South Korea 11:25 am for a LAYOVER of 7 ½ hours. No time difference.

Finished Reading “Paul Ryan: The Way Forward - Reviewing the American Idea” by Paul Ryan. An easy read . . . . . a story of Ryan’s Wisconsin politics, plans and faith – especially in family and American principles.

At Seoul-Incehon I purchased a pass for the HUB Club – It cost $24 for 3 hours. I bought 6 hours worth of food, drink a comfortable chair, table and mostly quiet. With plenty of time, I started to read “We’ll Always Have the Movies: American Cinema During World War II” a book published by University Press of Kentucky. It brought back many memories of films I watched on TV during the 50’s and 60’s and is a pretty good study, in depth, of some of the more notable movies. A good film history.

Left Incheon, South Korea 7:10 pm – Arrived Sydney, Australia 7:00 am (9 hr 50 minutes) Thursday morning. There is a 2 hour time difference between Seoul and Sydney. Sydney is in the same time zone as Guam.

Korean Airlines is a good airline – I was served hot meals on the flights from Guam and Seoul – a continental breakfast from Osaka. The planes seats have adequate leg room. The cabin staff was efficient, caring and provided excellent service. United could learn a few things.

There was a transfer customs check that you go through in Osaka and Incheon, as well as, the formal customs check in Sydney.

Obviously, there are no US National Parks in Australia or New Zealand. However, since I was almost 2/3 of the way to Australia - Hawaii is 4,220 miles from home; Guam is 3,801 miles from Hawaii – it’s another 5,078 (straight line miles if you could do that) from Guam to Sydney – I thought – Why not – I’ll probably never be this close again. So off the Australia and New Zealand.

The start of a new adventure.

THURSDAY January 28, 2016

WEATHER: 73 when I arrived in Sydney at 5 am, took me a little while to understand why it wasn’t dark until 8:30 pm – it’s summer “down here” – days are longer.

TRAVEL: I found the pre-arranged SUNBUS from the airport to the Holiday Inn Old Sydney. Most of my travel, transfers and car rentals were arranged by the travel agent.

Holiday Inn Old Sydney: Staff very friendly and helpful - it was around 11am but my room was ready. I was looking forward to a day of rest & recuperation. Took a short walk and nap; updated the blog - WIFI works great FREE because I am a Holiday Inn member ELSE $18.95 per day - got about an hour’s worth of sun at the pool. The 8^th floor has good views of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Located in The Rocks – plenty of shops, restaurants and bars- a happening place. Took about a mile walk down to a shopping mall of sorts . . . . called Westfield Sydney. Lot’s going on here.

Lesson Learned today – never take your phone to pool if your swimming suit has pockets.

Greater Sydney is the location of 4.8 million people

Australia is known for its Sydney Opera House, Great Barrier Reef, the vast Outback (interior desert wilderness) and unique animal species including kangaroos and duck-billed platypuses.

FRIDAY January 29, 2016 - A 44th Anniversary

WEATHER: 71 at 6 am high in low 80’s partly cloudy – thunderstorm between 1230-1330- then it cleared Sunrise 6:13 AM – Sunset 8:03 PM

Front of Four Seasons Hotel on George St
the coach pickup was on Harrison St
the other side of the hotel

TRAVEL: Pre-arranged tour – 8:15 am bus pickup at the Four Seasons Hotel, about a 10 minute walk down George Street. Arrived at 7:55 asked bellman about pickup at 8:10 – he indicated that AAT Kings Day Tours picks up at the other side of the hotel Harrington St – my error I didn’t read the itinerary completely.

Caption on the rear of the coach
This is the way to see Sydney

THE SYDNEY SPECTACULAR TOUR – 9 ½ hour introduction to Sydney

The coach was short on leg room but seats were leather, comfortable. Two drivers/guide alternated narration, Mark & Peter made a good team. Bus was only ½ full about 19 people. This was a good way to see Sydney – a city with plenty of suburbs and winding streets. The narration gave me a lot of background and some history on the city, as well as, stopping and/or passing, the “gotta see” tourist points.

EARLY HISTORY

Captain James Cook sailed along and mapped the east coast of what he called New South Wales in 1770. He named Botany Bay because his botanist & naturalist found over 200 new species of plant life. He reported it as a possible place to establish a colony. He bypassed the entrance to what is now Sydney Harbour, thinking it ‘insignificant.’

With the loss of the American colonies, the British were looking for a new place to send their undesirables, crooks and criminals. A fleet of ships, under the command of Captain Arthur Phillip was sent to Botany Bay to establish a new penal colony. Phillip deemed the place uninhabitable because of the lack of fresh water. He sailed a bit further up the coast and found the entrance to Sydney Harbour. He established a colony on Sydney Cove (Circular Quay). The flag was raised on January 26, 1788 – today that day is celebrated as a holiday – Australia Day. The place was named The Rocks because of it was mostly sandstone. The sandstone was cut to form building blocks for the buildings as the colony grew.

Sydney Harbour Bridge - Millson's Point

STOP 1 AR 0900 Millson’s Point - is a suburb located in North Sydney at the north end of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Along the harbor there ar good views of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House. The Sydney Harbour Bridge the 6^th longest spanning-arch bridge in the world, and the tallest steel arch bridge. Australian’s simply call it ‘the bridge.’ The bridge was designed and built by a British firm and opened in 1932.

Here's looking at you. Millons's Point
Sydney Opera House in the background

Sydney Opera House is a multi-venue performing arts center,identified as one of the 20th century's most distinctive buildings. Designed by Danish architect Jorn Utzon, the building was formally opened on 20 October 1973, after Utzon’s design was selected in 1957 as winner of an international design competition. People living across the harbor opposed construction believing it would devalue their property. The Sydney Opera House became UNESCO World Heritage Site on June 28, 2007.

Arabanoo Lookoout - Harbor Entrance
What Capt. Cook passed by as'insignificant'

STOP 2 AR 0950 Arabanoo Lookout - Arabanoo was an indigeneous Australian forcibly abducted by the European settlers of the First Fleet at

Port Jackson on New Year's Eve, 1788, in order to facilitate communication and relations between the Aborigines and the Europeans. Arabanoo was the first Aboriginal person of Australia to live among Europeans. In order to at first prevent him from escaping, Arabanoo was usually restrained by handcuff and rope, or iron chains, and was locked in a hut with a convict at night. When Arabanoo was first cuffed, he believed the handcuffs to be unique ornaments, but he became enraged when he discovered the purpose. In the aim of improving relations, the kidnapping of Arabanoo did not do a great deal of good. He did not learn English very quickly, "At least not to the point where he could make Captain Arthur Phillip any wiser on the grievances of the natives." In any case, convicts would soon launch vigilante attacks on the Aboriginal people near Botany Bay. In 1789, smallpox broke out in the settlement, and spread among the Indigenous population. Having no immunity, an estimated 2000 died. After only 6 months among the settlers, Arabanoo died of smallpox, which he called galgalla, on 18 May 1789. He was buried in the garden of the government building. Colonel David Collins said of his death was "to the great regret of everyone who had witnessed how little of the savage was found in his manner, and how quickly he was substituting in its place a docile, affable, and truly amiable deportment".

Mally Beach Shopping Mall

Manly Beach

STOP 3 AR 1029 Manly Beach This was a 30 minute stop. Manly Beach was named by Captain Arthur Phillip for the indigenous people living there – he wrote that the native people's “confidence and manly behavior made me give the name of Manly Cove to this place".

Darling Harbour

Captain Cook Cruise - view of Sydney from the boat

Stop 4 AR 1155 Kings Wharf – Darling Harbour – I upgraded and took a two hour Captain Cook Harbor Cruise – lunch was buffet – adequate –it was a good place to spend time while a thunderstorm passed through for most of the cruise. At least I saw another part of the harbor. The rain stopped just about the time we got off.

We got on the coach and received a commentary on The Rocks and other points of interest. The Rocks became established shortly after the colony's formation in 1788. The original buildings were made mostly of local sandstone, from which the area derives its name. From the earliest history of the settlement, the area had a reputation as a slum, often frequented by visiting sailors and the like. Today it is an artsy, touristy, trendy part of Sydney not far from what is considered City Center.

We passed Hyde Park, St. Mary’s Cathedral, Parliament House and the Royal Botanic Gardens on our way to a stop at Mrs. MacQuaries Chair.

Mrs. Macquaries Chair

STOP 5 AR 1440 Mrs. MacQuaries Chair. The location provides one of the best vantage points in Sydney. The historic chair was carved out of a rock ledge for Governor Lachlan Macquarie's wife, Elizabeth, as she was known to visit the area and sit enjoying the panoramic views of the harbor.

Gap Park - ,map

The Gap - South Head

STOP 6 AR 1545 The Gap is an ocean cliff on the South Head peninsula in eastern Sydney. The area, which faces the Tasman Sea, is located in the eastern suburb of Watsons Bay, in the municipality of Woollahra, near South Head. We stopped here just long enough for a few photos.

Bondi Beach Surfer's Lifesaving Club

Bondi Beach

STOP 7 AR 1605 Bondi Beach is a popular Sydney beach attracts an average of 10,000 people a day. It can hold up to 30,000. The coach guides kept reminding people to always "swim between the flags", i.e. always swim between the red and yellow flags to avoid dangerous rip tides. It is pronounced Bon-dye Beach.

BOTTOM LINE: This was a very good tour. The guides probably made it what it was. I learned a lot about Australia and Sydney. It seemed much more informative than any NP Ranger led tour . . . maybe because I could tell this guys really liked what they were doing..

SATURDAY January 30, 2016

Four Seasons Hotel on George St
Viewed from Circular Quay

WEATHER: 67 at 7 am sunny and clear; cloudy on the drive to the Blue Mountains then it cleared low 70’s, cool and pleasant walking the Jameson Valley; rained on the drive from Luera to Featherdale Wildlife Park (2pm-3pm); cleared then clouded up; thunderstorm, lightning and heavy-heavy rain on the drive from Featherdale to the cruise pickup point on the Paramatta River near the Year 2000 Olympic Park & Village; stopped for the walk from Circular Quay (Opera House) back to the Holiday Inn. Sunrise 6:14 AM – Sunset 8:02 PM days are getting shorter down here

TRAVEL: Pre-arranged tour – 8:00 am bus pickup at the Four Seasons Hotel, Harrington Street entrance; Scenic World (Blue Mountains) -.Echo Point Lookout – Leura – Featherdale Wildlife Park – Paramatta River Cruise to Circular Quay. AAT Kings Day Tours

A BLUE MOUNTAINS, WILDLIFE, CRUISE – 10 hour tour

This tour pickup (8 am) was at the same location as yesterday. The bus was nearly full – there were 50 people on board. It was a one hour drive to

Blue Moutains - Clouds Above the Jameson Valley
Three Sisters on the left

A bit more background – the Blue Mountains received their name from the vapor released from eucalyptus trees which creates a blue mist. Quite frankly I didn’t notice anything blue about the mountains at all . . . . The 3 explorers who first found a route through the Blue Mountains were named Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawton. There is a town named after each on the east side of the mountains. There are at least 5 Australian National Parks within the Blue Mountains.

The Garrison Church in Sydney has 3 entrances – the center for the general population, right and left for soldiers and convicts – the driver referenced class distinction – nothing about the Trinity.

In 1994 a ranger found a living fossil plant thought to be extinct in one of the remote parts of the Blue Mountains. The plant was seeded and grown today it is a flourishing species due to man’s intervention.

Scenic World Railway Top Station
It got really steep after this

Scenic world Railway

STOP 1 AR 1000 Scenic World The entry ticket was not included in the tour, I
bought one for $30 AUS. We spent a little over 2 hours here. Scenic World is privately owned in the middle Blue Mountains NP.

I took the incline Railway down to the bottom of the valley. The route was originally used by coal miners in more primitive cars.

The bottom of the valley is rainforest. I walked about 2 miles of interpretive trails. All the trails are on a raised boardwalk. The trails continued a descent so there was a walk up. It was cooler in the valley rainforest but the walk up the inclines still brought on a bit of a sweat.

I took the Cableway up from the Valley, with views of Orphan Rock, the Three Sisters and Katoomba Falls.

To conclude the ride portion of the tour I took a Skyway gondola the across the Jameson Valley to Echo Point Lookout, passing Orphan Rock, and Katoomba Falls.

Scenic World Walkway Map

Scenic World Walkway
View of Cliff Edge of valley

Scenic World Walkway
boardwalks

Echo Point - Katoomba

STOP 2 AR 1230 Echo Point Lookout – this was a 15 minute drive. We got off the bus near where one end of the Skyway from Scenic World terminates. Thee are trails that lead to the Three Sisters and Katoomba Falls. With enough time, these appear to be worthwhile walks.

Echo Point - Three Sister

Echo Point - view of the Jamison Valley - Scenic World is across the valley

Leuria Street - Corner where I had lunch

Welcome To Featherdale
Wildlife Prrk

STOP 3 AR 1310 Leuria – a lunch stop that reminded me of many places I’ve visited – plenty of restaurants and shops.

STOP 4 AR 1515 Featherdale Wildlife Park. This is close to Sydney in a suburb called Blacktown. Not a zoo - a wildlife park – many animals living in small spaces – I did see the animals Australia is known for: kangaroo, wallaby, platypus, Tasmanian Devil, crocodile, wombat, koala bear, emu, dingo, cocktoos and fruit bats. This is not a large park but interesting. The coach left at 4:30 pm just as a thunderstorm with a very heavy rain opened up for about 30 minutes.

Featherdale - kids feeding
Wallaby

Featherdale - Emu

Featherdale- Cassaway

Paramata River Boat - I really think it was a ferry

STOP 5 AR 1700 I departed the coach for a ride down the Paramatta River to Circular Quay. The ride to the drop off point passed the site of the 2000 Olympics. The rain had just stopped. The trip on the river may have been more interesting if it hadn’t been so cloudy – the narration was mediocre. I do remember passing a rather elegant home that was the backdrop and filming location of The Great Gatsby. I got back to my hotel around 6:15 pm

Docking in Circular Quay - Royal Carribean Cruise
Ship in background

Coming into Circular Quay
Opera House

SUNDAY January 31, 2016

WEATHER: sunny all day 70’s to low 80’s

Sunrise 6:15 AM – Sunset 8:02 PM

TRAVEL: A free day in Sydney . . . .

St. Patrick's
Sydney, Australia

St. Patrick’s Church is located several blocks away. Opened on March 18, 1844, a date supposedly avoided so as not to mar St. Patrick’s Day with inebriated revelers and religious bigotry. It claims to be one of the oldest Catholic Church’s in Sydney. It has been run by the Marist Fathers (Society of Mary) since 1868. Interesting service – about 70 in attendance – the priest entered from the sacristy but exited from the front (holy) door.

The 2^nd reading today was “love is patient . . . . . the only three things that last are faith, hope and love, and the greatest of these is love” Appropriate for an anniversary. The priest had a good homily – seemed liked a prelude to my visit to the Australian Museum – taking a theme from the gospel ‘prophets are not recognized in their own time: - he went over the injustice and apology given to the Aboriginal peoples – Australia seemed to take after America in bigotry, racism, eradication of indigenous people and in the vein of Obama – an apology in 2008 by the prime minister.

Australian Museum - Sydney

My intent was to walk to Hertz, to get bearings for tomorrow – in the process I stopped at Hyde Park, the Australian Museum was well worth the price of admission – spent more than 2 hours in the museum. The museum was just a block from Hertz. However by the time I finished with the museum, Hertz was already closed 15 minutes. Well, at least I know where it is. There were 3 levels with several galleries. The Ground Level housed the Original Long Gallery, First Australians, and Wild Planet.

Colonial treatment of the aborigine nations was not kind

The 2^nd Level housed several mineral collections – a rival to the mineral collection in the UP of Michigan near the School of Mines.

The 4^th Level housed an exhibit entitled Surviving Australia with displays of all the things in Australia that can kill, eat, or bite you – I had almost forgot. There are also exhibits named Dinosaur, Pacific Sprit, Birds & Insects and two areas especially for kids called Search & Discover and Kidspace..

St. Mary's Cathedral from Museum Roof
Hyde Park to the left The Rooks to the right rear

The 4^th Level contains the Rooftop Café. Is is not open air but has great views of Sydney.

I also visited a Special Expedition called Trailblazers: Australia’s 50 Greatest Explorers.

Circular Quay - Shops & Restaurants
The Harbour Bridge is left rear
The Opera house is at the end of this walk

On the walk back I passed many of the places the tour bus passed on Friday such as: St Mary’s Cathedral (Australia has a St. Mary), the Hyde Park Barracks Museum, the Sydney Hospital, the Parliament House, and State Library.

Opera House is located at the end of Circular Quay

I continued the walk to Circular Quay and walked around the Opera House. I did not take

the offered tour. I did have an excellent lunch at a restaurant with outdoor service on walk of Circular Quay just before the Opera House..

I seems like a different cruise ship arrives every morning to dock at Circular Quay; after the previous ship leaves the night before – a busy passenger terminal.

MONDAY February 1, 2016

WEATHER: cloudy all day – high of 88 when I got to Newcastle Beach, but the sun was behind the clouds, probably a good thing or it would have really been hot

Sunrise Sydney 6:16 AM – Sunset 8:01 PM

TRAVEL: walked a little more than a mile to Hertz in downtown Sydney (30 minute walk) and drove back to the Holiday Inn Old Sydney to pick up my bags. The drive back was a trip – literally . . . . . I rented a GPS device but thought I knew my way back to the Holiday Inn, so I did not use the GPS – well driving is not the same as walking – I did explore the way I was going to leave Sydney but had to cross the Harbour Bridge twice – yes there is a toll. It took me an hour to get back, set the GPS, and load my bags.

Holiday Inn Old Sydney
on George St in The Rocks

I’m glad I rented the GPS but I should have just purchased Australia/New Zealand and brought my own GARMIN. I’m pretty sure I would have had many false starts and hit a few dead-ends and become a bit frustrated. Rent a GPS.

It took about an hour to get out of North Sydney (34 km) – extremely slow – then another one hour to Newcastle. The GPS was indispensible. A total drive of about 134 km total.

I traveled Highway M1 north out of Sydney to a turnoff that took me east to the coast to Newcastle. M1 is a 4 lane expressway – the trip reminded me of a drive through the Appalachians on the east coast. Travelling round-a-bouts to the left is an interesting experience.

According to the map, there were several National Parks to the west of M1 that I did not visit. Yengo NP, Wollemi NP, Gardens of Stone NP and Turon NP. These NPs are not necessarily set up like the US NPs.

Newcastle - view from
room balcony

Novotel Newcastle Beach – I’m not sure what I expected but this is a 4 or 5 Star Hotel. A block from the ocean, balcony with an ocean view, stocked bar. Parking was $22 per day; looks like I joined the Le Club Accorhotel's, a loyalty program, which supposedly will get me free internet ELSE $24.95 per day.

Newcastle Beach

Today was supposed to be a free day, I’ve already visited the Blue Mountains. Australia has 100’s of National Parks but they do not appear to all have Visitor Centers like US NPs. They are more like state or county parks . . . . . they may or may not have rangers and a VC.

I walked to the beach and then took an hour stroll looking at shops. I found a book store but there were no books on Australia’s National Parks. Lots of restaurants - few were open. Delicious tortellini at the hotel.

TUESDAY February 2, 2016

WEATHER: clear and sunny at 6 am, it’s been warm – they say 8 degrees above normal – that’s worth at least 16 degrees Fahrenheit

Sunrise Newcastle 6:16 AM – Sunset 7:56 PM

TRAVEL: Novotel Newcastle Beach, Newcastle, NSW to Novotel Pacific Bay Resort, Coff’s Harbour, NSW

Sydney - Newcastle - Coffs Harbour - Byron Bay - Brisbane

The drive took 6 ½ hours (LV 0950 AR 1630) including a short break for lunch and covered about 300km. Traffic was slow in many places due to construction – the road is not all 4 lane . . . . yet – a work in progress. Interesting – no billboards along the highway – rest areas every 30 km or so

SPEAK AUSTRALIAN:

I have not had a Foster’s since arriving and have never seen Foster’s on tap or in a bottle shop.

bottle shop -liquor store

carpark -parking lot/ramp/garage

passing -overtake

stopping bay -truck/car pullout

lift -elevator.

caravan park -trailer/rv park

tyre -tire

The long drive did not leave much time for off the road ventures to visit National Parks or take scenic drives. I passed several to include turnoffs for Hunter Wetlands NP, Barrington NP, Myall Lakes NP, Crowdy Bay NP, Cograbakh NP

Novotel
Pacific Bay Resort
Coffs Harbour

Novotel Pacific Bay Resort – I found this place by luck – the GPS would not recognize the intersection of Bay St and Pacific Highway. Definitely, a resort - the staff at the reception desk were not as helpful as the people in Newcastle. A beautiful nine hole par three golf course, large pool, fitness centers, I never did walk to the beach. WIFI is not free except in the lobby.

Pacific Bay Resort
Coffs Harbour
Putting Green front

The lobby of this resort did have two brochures on Australian National Parks.

Visitor Guide National Parks & Reserves of the NSW North Coast – identifies the 97 parks and reserves in the region. The parks were developed as a refuge for an outstanding diversity of plants and animals. Park fees apply at some parks. The National Parks respectfully acknowledge the Aboriginal people of the North Coast and their strong connection to their land and waters and they pay respect to Elders past and present.

Pacific Bay Resort
Coffs Harbour

Most of these parks are wilderness. Many are designated World Heritage Sites.

Visitor Guide Dorrigo National Park – Dorrigo Rainforest Centre is open from 9am to 4:30 daily. This park is south and west of Coff’s Harbour. I may visit tomorrow morning.

Yuraygir National Park if north of Coff’s Harbour. I may also visit this on the way to Byron Bay tomorrow.

I thought about a short round of golf in the morning but I think the parks will take precedence. The course here a 9 hole Par 3 looks beautiful and challenging.

WEDNESDAY February 3, 2016

WEATHER: cloudy in the morning, 70's clear in the afternoon

Sunrise Coff’s Harbour 6:16 AM – Sunset 7:46 PM

TRAVEL: Novetel Pacific Bay Resort, Coff’s Harbour, NSW to Dorrigo National Park to Apartments Inn Byron, Byron Bay, NSW

The drive to Dorrigo National Park & the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre was 68 km and 1hr 27 min. After updating the blog, checking e-mails and having breakfast, I left at 9 am and got to the Rain Forest Center about 10:30 am. I was a drive up the mountain . . . . similar to the Blue ridge or somewhere in the Appalachians of Pennsylvania but the forest was certainly different.

Dorrigo NP - Wonga Walk (Trail) Map

I left the park around 2 pm and got to Byron Bay around 6:30pm – a trip of 4 hours that included a wild goose chase in an attempt to locate Yuraygir National Park from the Pacific Coast Highway. There are signs on M1 – after that it’s anybody’s guess – never found another sign. Saw a lot of farm/ranch country – the cicadas resound from the forests.

I passed by other signs on M1 indicating other turnoffs to Yuragir NP and Broadwater NP – I didn’t bother – and I don’t think I’m going to back-track from Byron Bay.

A lot of construction along the highway – still trying to make it 4 lane – you had to go past Byron Bay in order to get on a highway that would take you to it. Arrival in Byron Bay – a resort town, a surfer town . . . . . at any rate a vacation destination – very nice.

Dorriga National Park – Dorrigo Rainforest Centre – A World Heritage Site. After the drive up the mountain, I located Dorrigo Rainforest Centre. It was marked on the highway. There was a lengthy documentary on the rainforest, a small VC, bookstore/gift shop, and restaurant – Cost was a nominal $2 Australian.

Dorrigo NP - Wonga Walk
Rainforest - Note asphalt trail

Dorrigo National Park is part of the Gondwanna Rainforests of Australia, a name given collectively to over fifty remnant rain forests in New South Wales and South-eastern Queensland. These forests are protected and recognized with World Heritage Status.

The Gumbaynggirr people were custodians of this land for thousands of years. Most of the Dorringo Plateau was once covered from the Ebor Volcano, active until 18 million years ago. Under the influence of a very high annual rainfall the basalt weathered to from the impressive escarpment and chocolate soils around Dorrigo. Australian: walk means trail

Dorrigo NP - Wonga Walk
Tristania Falls

The Wonga Walk is 6.6 km loop (circuit in Australian) is an asphalt track – entirely shaded. The descent is easy the trek up can work up a sweat. You descend into the valley and pass Tristania Falls and coming up you pass Crystal Shower Falls.

Dorrigo NP - Wonga Walk
Crystal Shower Falls

The track, follows terraces formed by successive flows of basalt, exposed by erosion on the edge of the escarpment. I heard plenty of birds under and in the canopy. The walk took about 2 ½ hours.

Apartments Inn Byron Bay
St. Elmo is to the right

The Apartments Inn Byron Bay – an apartment – full kitchen, dining, living, bedroom, bath and balcony. I was located on the 2^nd (top) floor). Utilized the washer/dryer. I arrived after hours (the office closed at 6 pm) but there was a safe with an envelope and my keys. Parking was beneath the building. A handy restaurant bar next door called St. Elmo served a fine dinner. The bartender reminded me of Russell Crowe (an Australian). A lot of young people – seems a lot of guys wear long hair with it pulled to the rear in a small topknot/bun.

THURSDAY February 4, 2016

WEATHER: raining and about 75 very humid in the morning, rained or drizzled on and off all day – cloudy – sun peaked through occasionally

Sunrise 6:15 AM – Sunset 8:01 PM

TRAVEL: Apartments Inn Byron, Byron Bay, NSW – Burleigh Head NP – Gold Coast HD – Nerang NP – Springbrook NP – Natural Bridge NP – Gasoline Alley HD to The Sebel, Brisbane, QLD. A total trip 290 km with an average speed of 52km/h – 5 ½ hours of windshield time.

Byron Bay

Byron Bay is best described as Lake Geneva with surfing – complete with real estate brokers offices and pictures of homes for sale.

AUSTRALIA NATIONAL PARKS BACKGROUND:

Australia has over 500 national parks. Over 28 million hectares of land is designated as national parkland, accounting for almost four per cent of Australia's land areas. In addition, a further six per cent of Australia is protected and includes state forests, nature parks and conservation reserves.

National parks are usually large areas of land that are protected because they have unspoiled landscapes and a diverse number of native plants and animals. This means that commercial activities such as farming are prohibited and human activity is strictly monitored.

World Heritage areas

In 2005, Australia had 14 World Heritage areas. These are places or areas that UNESCO, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, has agreed are worthy of special protection because they represent the best examples of the world's cultural and natural heritage. Some of these, such as Kakadu, Uluru-Kata Tjuta and Purnululu National Parks, are jointly managed by the Aboriginal traditional owners as UNESCO World Heritage areas.

Burleigh Head NP
photo from park website

Gold Coast Chapter
Harley Owners Group

I think I located Burleigh Headland NP. Burleigh headland is a prominent Gold Coast landmark. To reach the southern entrance of the park, turn off the Gold Coast Highway at the traffic lights immediately north of Tallebudgera Creek. It looked like the right place per an internet map. The GPS took me there. Of Course there was no sign and it was raining so I loaded a new address and drove to Gold Coast Harley-Davidson.

This is what I found looking for
Nerang NP

Then I thought I’d attempt to locate Nerang NP. The GPS said it was a drive of 4 km.

If you are using the internet this is how it is described for a LOCATION: Nerang National Park and Nerang State Forest are 12 km from Surfers Paradise, on the north-west outskirts of Nerang. Of course, there was a sign, it was a protected area – but not quite what I expected. So off to Natural Bridge NP.

Sprirngbrook - view from the top of
the steep road just before
entering the town of Springbrook

This road has grades of 17% & 15 %

So I drove up another mountain and into a rainforest. On the road I passed a sign indicating I had entered Springbrook NP. Springbrook National Park is located about 100km south of Brisbane and comprises four sections on and around the plateau; Springbrook section extends along the crest of the plateau, Mount Cougal section to the south east and Natural Bridge and Numinbah sections to the west. I took a left and headed up a road with a 17% grade. The road appears to follow a ridge or the spine of a mountain separating two valleys. There were no turnouts or scenic overlooks but the views were worth the drive. The drive itself was a bit exciting. The VW Golf coughed a little on the way up. I took it slow coming down and continued to Natural Bridge NP.

Natural Bridge NP actually appears to be a unit of the Springbrook National Park. It has a picturesque Natural Bridge rock formation - once formed by the force of the waterfall over the erosive basalt cave. There is a 1 ½ km circuit (loop trail) that took about a ½ hour to walk. More rainforest. A descent through ancient Gondwana rainforest to the Natural Bridge rock arch and back up.

Here’s a riddle . . . . What does it do in a rainforest? RAIN. Of course I expected rain.

Natural Bridge
Trail (track) in the
rain forest

Natural Bridge - Geology

Natural Bridge as you approach on the trail

Natural Bridge - under the formation
Home of glow worms and bats

The GPS was doing pretty good at locating HD dealers so I tired to Gasoline Alley HD located off the Pacific Highway near Brisbane.

The Sebel is part of the Accor Hotels group – in the heart of downtown Brisbane a very nice room on the 19^th floor does nicely.

Brisbane is the capital of Queensland an Australian state covering the continent’s northeast, with a coastline stretching nearly 7,000km. Its offshore Great Barrier Reef, the world’s largest coral reef system, hosts thousands of marine species. The stylish capital, Brisbane, is flanked by the surfing-friendly beaches of the Gold and Sunshine Coasts.

Downtown Brisbane is a nice downtown – lots going on – stopped at an place called “Irish Bar” but they didn’t serve Harp . . . . thought about it for awhile, then ordered a Kilkenney Ale – on tap – a good beer. This place was in a basement – different. Up the stairs and to a place called Gilhooley’s – Irish – ordered a Kilkenney and food.

FRIDAY February 5, 2016

WEATHER: cloudy looking like rain

Sunrise Brisbane 5:23 AM – Sunset 6:40 PM Queensland is in a different time zone than New South Wales, I don’t know why

TRAVEL: The Sebel, Brisbane to Brisbane Domestic Airport Terminal – Qantas Flt 782 to Cairns – transfer to the Pacific Hotel Cairns. This will be home for 5 nights.

Pacific Hotel - Cairns

The trip to Brisbane Airport was uneventful but thank goodness for the GPS – “don’t leave home without it” – a lot less stress - gassed up – turned in the car at the International Terminal – took the Orange Bus to the Domestic Terminal – checked in and took a 2 hour flight north. When I arrived in Cairns (pronounced can) it was 31 C or 88 F and 75% humidity and cloudy. There was a agent with my name on a placard that drove me to the Pacific Hotel.

The Pacific Hotel is a 4/4.5 Star hotel. My room is on the 10^th floor with a good view of the ocean from the balcony. I called Wavedancer Low Isles to confirm my tour to the Great Barrier Reef tomorrow. There will be a 8am pickup at the hotel.

Cairns - Salt Water Lagoon

Cairns, located in northern Queensland, is chic with a casual seaside, tropical lifestyle feel – home to two World Heritage sites -the Great Barrier Reef and the ancient Daintree Rainforest. The Pacific Hotel is located on the Esplanade, a 2.5 km stretch along the city’s shore that features shops, as well as, parks, bike paths, and the Lagoon – a popular saltwater swimming pool..

Cairns - The Boardwalk
on the Wharf - Restaurants
& Shops are to the left

Went for a walk - found a store called Aussie Bush Hats. The owner was very friendly, told him I wanted a hat that would keep the sun off my face and neck, resist rain and easily packable . . . . he suggested an Australian made hat with the name of Traveller – he did not have the color and size that I wanted – he said he would order. If it’s in by Tuesday, I may buy it. It is made out of rabbit fur, the crown crushes down flat even with the brim. – perfect. I queried about a place for a beer and a snack. He suggested the Salt House at the end of the wharf boardwalk. They had great spring rolls.

Cairns - the Esplanade
the red dot sign is Grill'd

Walked the Esplanade – passed the Lagoon and found Grill’d – a place recommended by the guy at the bottle shop – sliders were better than Fred’s. Stop at an art shop – contemporary Aboriginal Art – very interesting – there is stuff in there that I like.

SATURDAY February 6, 2016

WEATHER: 26 C/79F 94% humidity mostly sunny at 7am, projected to get in the 90’s today

Sunrise Cairns 6:07 AM – Sunset 6:54 PM

TRAVEL: bus pickup at 8am to Port Douglas – Wavedancer Low Isles Reef/Great Barrier Reef – return to Port Douglas and back to Pacific Hotel by 5:50 pm.

Low Isles - Part of the Great Barrier Reef
Located off Port Douglas, Queensland, Australia

Great Barrier Reef is a World Heritage area, off the coast of Queensland in northeastern Australia, is the largest living thing on Earth, and even visible from outer space. The 2,300km-long ecosystem comprises thousands of reefs and hundreds of islands made of over 600 types of hard and soft coral. It's home to countless species of fish, mollusks and starfish, plus turtles, dolphins and sharks.

The World Heritage Area extends from the top of Cape York in north-east Australia to just north of Bundaberg, and from the low water mark on the Queensland coast to the outer boundary of the Marine Park, which is beyond the edge of the continental shelf.

About 99 per cent of the World Heritage Area is within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park.

Low Isles - Lighthouse, beach and snorkeling area
the group to the left of the picture in the water are snorklers

There are also 1050 islands and cays - these include 600 continental islands and 300 coral cays, while the remaining 150 islands are inshore mangrove islands which are important to the functioning and health of the Great Barrier Reef. Together, the biodiversity and interconnectedness between species and habitats represents one of the richest and most complex natural ecosystems on earth.

The Great Barrier Reef was declared a World Heritage Area in 1981 because of its 'outstanding universal value'. This recognized the Reef as being one of the most remarkable places on earth, as well as its global importance and its natural worth.

Wavedancer - this is the boat that took us out
to the Low Isles for snorkelilng - it was a pleasant 1 hour trip

The Wavedancer Low Isles tour was arranged to include the bus pickup. While on the bus, I was “adopted” by a tour guide with about 20 Americans on the bus. I met a couple from Mequon, WI. The guide made some valuable commentary about history and background as we headed up the Captain Cook Highway to Port Douglas. Port Douglas, like Cairns is located on the Coral Sea, not the Pacific Ocean.

The road ends about an hour north of Port Douglas at the Daintree River. There is a ferry but beyond that there is no electricity unless you have a generator – the real bush- wilderness.

Lots of sugarcane fields along the road north of Cairns. A long stretch of the Captain Cook Highway literally runs between the face of the mountains and the Coral Sea.

However, this group took a different boat than I did and reminded me again of why I did not want to be part of a group. It is not relaxing – you’re a tourist - always on the tour’s schedule - when to get up – when to meet for breakfast, buses, tours, rarely a choice of where or what to eat - when to sleep. Been there – done that – worked well in China. Not here..

Low Isles - John the Marine Biologist
on shore for the beach walk
wearing a 'stinger' suit'

My tour was a catamaran dual sailing/motor that took us to the Low Isles – a casual ride of about an hour. We boarded at 9:30 am, were served tea and coffee, and listened to a presentation by a marine biologist, name John, about the reef – definitely promotes ecologist - what do you call an tree hugger – who loves the ocean – not sure but he can’t hug the coral he’ll may kill it. After a while his repeated dull jokes and “we can change” message got old – but still some interesting stuff.

John must think people like to be scared – hence the ‘stinger suits’ and stories about Box Jellyfish. I found the following on the internet – it must be true. The Box Jellyfish season starts with the onset of the wet across the top of northern Australia, usually around October and lasts until April. Further south along the northern Queensland or northern Western Australia coast the season is usually from November to March. You have virtually no chance of surviving the venomous sting. The pain is so excruciating and overwhelming that you would most likely go into shock and drown before reaching the shore.

Map - Cairns - Port Douglas - Low Islands and points north - reefs along the coast

There were also stories about the Crown of Thorns Starfish destroying the coral. Crown-of-thorns starfish (also known as COTS) are marine invertebrates that feed on coral. They occur naturally on reefs throughout the Indo-Pacific region, and when conditions are right, they can reach plague proportions and devastate hard coral communities. The Australian Marine Park Operators Association has programs to control COT outbreaks. This is what the American Samoan diver for the NPS did for the National Park of American Samoa.

The biologist liked to play mythbuster. He said some fish mate for life and many fish are born one sex and undergo a sex change as part of maturation. Like clownfish – Nemo – a kids story but maybe not for real – Clownfish are born male and eventually become a female who is dominant and larger – after a ruling female dies, the dominant male becomes a female – therefore Nemo’s dad, Marlin, should have become a female after Nemo’s mom was ‘eaten by a barracuda’ and Nemo becoming separated should also have undergone a change in sex – way too complicated for Disney. I liked the story the way it was told . . . . so much for the marine biologist.

I rented a black lycra ‘stinger suit’ – everybody who snorkeled did. Really not needed – better safe than sorry – and the best sunscreen I could have used for $8 AUS.

Low Isles discovered and names by Capt Cook - 1770

Low Isles - coral through the 'glass bottom boat'

The snorkeling led by the John, (another guy Hans or Franz was the lifeguard), found and passed around sea cucumbers and other marine life. This was different that any snorkeling I had done before.

However, the snorkeling here was not the best I’ve been on. It comes in third after, the Virgin Islands and Cancun. Not much variety of coral, little color, not the clearest water (the crew thought it was outstanding) and few fish.

Sugar\ Cane fields along the Capt. Cook Highwya
between Cairns & Port Douglas

After a buffet lunch on board, John led a short island tour walk. For about 45 minutes – interesting – but same dull jokes. Looked like rain in many places but never where I was. Met up with the folks on the bus who went to the outer reef – the guy from Mequon agreed with me – the Virgin Islands were much better. Maybe the Great Barrier Reef is overrated?

Still looking for hats – located some in a tourist gift shop – Australian names but all were tagged “Made in China”.

Walked the Esplanade – found place advertised as a jazz/piano bar – a guitar, drum, bass trio – playing next to a baby grand that wasn’t being used – the trio was good. First time I’ve ever heard Chris Izaak’s “The Wicked Game” played by a group. They did a good job. Beers here were reasonable $7 AUS.

Cairns Sunset - from the baclony of my hotel room

Dinner at an Italian restaurant on the Esplanade – great vegetarian pizza – but a bottle of beer was an expensive $11.50 AUS - interesting - in the background one of the songs was “The Wicked Game”.

I may have found my hat – stopped twice by a store and found an Australian made bush hat – a Barmah Squashy, Kangaroo Range – air flow through the crown- fabric hat band – leather brim. Made to be folded and retain its shape. Didn’t buy it yet.

SUNDAY February 7, 2016

WEATHER: 28C/82F at 7:45 am 89% humidity, mostly cloudy; should get to 92F, clear by the shore, cloudy in the mountains

Sunrise Cairns 6:08 AM – Sunset 6:53 PM

Cairns: High Tide 8:36 am Low Tide 2:33 pm High Tide 8:23 pm

TRAVEL: Free Day in Cairns.

ST. Monica's Cathedral - one side of the cration windwos

Attended 10 am mass at St. Monica’s Cathedral; it was a 6 block walk from the hotel. The stained glass windows here are works of art – telling the creation . . . . .

St. Monica's Cathedral - Cairns

The priest entered down the center aisle alone – no deacon – no servers. His sermon reflected the readings of being “called”. Isaiah and Peter both thought they were unworthy. Apparently, he had just been at a conference in Canberra for military chaplains and he reflected that the Protestant ministers all felt they were “called” to their ministries. This priest said with a touch of humor and honesty that he wasn’t called but in high school he told said twice he “wanted to be a priest” in order to get a free weekend at a boys camp. Ash Wednesday coming – he added that if you were on holiday it meant sacrifice – therefore one less beer than usual.

Bernie's Jazz- Piano Cafe
Abbott St - Cairns

I walked down Abbot St. past Bernies Jazz Piano Bar, stopped in at outdoor adventure
store – nice gear , stopped at Woolworth’s, a large supermarket chain and past the hat shop – I bought the Barmah Squashy Kangaroo Range for $69 Australian – after the 3rd visit and after I stopped at Bernie's - I’ll get used to it.

Bernies - inside the band is up
front - look close you can see the
piano to the right. The bar is to the
left front.

Updated the blog and transferred pictures – went to the pool for about 40 minutes – it was hot. Went to Bernie's at 5 pm - the band must have a local following - the place was pretty full and most people seemed to know each other - an older band - and older crowd. The drummer was the singer - a high nasaly voice - oh well - same progression - the crowd found it enjoyable - I stayed for 2 sets..

MONDAY February 8 2016

WEATHER: 27C/8F 94% humidity, partly cloudy at 6:30 am, forecast high of 88F

Cairns Sunrise 6:08 AM – Sunset 6:53 PM

TRAVEL: Bus from the Pacific Hotel to Freshwater Station, where I caught the Kuranda Scenic Railway to Kuranda; from Kuranda it was the SkyWay cable gondola down the mountain to Caravonica Lakes and a bus back to the hotel.

CHINESE NEW YEAR – Year of the Monkey

This is a big deal in Australia – probably 180.000 Chinese in Australia here for the New Year Celebration. I heard the tour guide for the Kuranda Railway say that they alone had 80,000 Chinese ride the train and SkyWay over the last 2 weeks. Over 1,000,000 Chinese visit Australia every year, spending over $5,000 each – China is Australia’s largest tourist market.

Monkey: 2016, 2004, 1992, 1980, 1968

Monkey: Quick-witted, charming, lucky, adaptable, bright, versatile, lively, smart.

Some Australian History:

1770 Capt. Cook found the reef difficult to sail, damaged his ship the Endeavour and pulled in on Trinity Sunday at a place he named Trinity Bay

1788 Since England could no longer send undesirables and convicts to America, they sent them to Australia – landed near Sydney – established a colony at The Rocks

1848 gold discovered in Australia, convicts no longer sent to Australia’s east coast

1850-58 England sent convicts to the west coast of Australia

KURANDA SCENIC RAIL – SKYRAIL an arranged tour – hotel pickup at 7:20 am. Drive to Freshwaterwater Station and a ride on the Kuranda Scenic Railway through hand-hewn tunnels, across bridges, a stop at Barron Gorge to view the waterfalls and an arrival at Kuranda Station. Explored Kuranda, ‘Village of the Rainforest’ - - - load onto the Skyrail over the rain forest canopy with 2 stops on the route – a walk through the rain forest – the Interpretive Center. Arrival at Caravonica Lakes and a bus ride back the to the hotel..

KURANDA SCENIC RAILWAY

In 1882 and the miners of Herberton (west of the Great Dividing Range) were on the brink of total starvation, unable to get supplies due to flooding. A route to civilization was desperately needed and adventure bushman Christie Palmerston was charged with finding a starting point for a railway.

Kuranda Scenic Railway

Kuranda Scenic Railway
rounding a cruve

The Premier Sir Samuel Griffiths turned the first sod for the line which was to be built in three stages. Dense jungle and cliffs with sheer drops of up to 327 meters and a slope as steep as 45 degrees were literal death traps for workers. Somehow, without modern equipment but simply fortitude, dynamite, and bare hands the team eventually finished the job.

Kuranda Scenice Railway - view

After removing 2.3 million meters of earthworks, creating 15 tunnels, 93 curves, dozens of bridges and 75 kilometers of track, a banquet high up on the bridge with General Sir Henry Wiley Norman, Governor of Queensland marked the completion of Stoney Creek Bridge. Shortly after in June of 1891 the line was open for everyone to enjoy.

The original Kuranda Scenic Railway is a legendary demonstration of man's ingenuity and nature's wonder.

Barron Gorge National Park

Barron Gorge Waterfall, just before entry to Kuranda Station was a stop on the railway. Barron Gorge National Park extends from the coastal lowlands to the elevated regions of the Atherton Tableland and features rugged mountain scenery, tropical rainforests, diverse wildlife and a fascinating history. The park lies within the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area.

Barron Falls
Not much water flowing

The Barron River dominates the park. Rising from the rainforests of Mount Hypipamee National Park, the river winds 60 km across the Atherton Tableland through one of Australia's highest rainforest belts. The river then enters the deep Barron Gorge, which forms a rugged, twisting trough between the Macalister and Lamb ranges. The river falls 250 meters onto the narrow coastal lowlands and flows to the Coral Sea, just north of the Cairns Airport. During the wetter months, floodwaters regularly create a spectacular sight at Barron Falls.

The park is part of the traditional lands of the Djabugandji Bama (local Aboriginal people) who maintain a close spiritual connection with this country. Before Europeans arrived, Bama traversed this country, developing trails linking the coast to the uplands. These historic trails now form sections of a walking track network.

Kuranda is well known as the Village in the Rainforest and has been attracting visitors for well over a century. Initially people came to admire the mighty Barron Falls, while artisans (hippies from the late 60’s ) were attracted to the region's natural beauty and decided to call it home, creating a vibrant arts and craft culture.

Today people flock to this tiny village to enjoy both of these things, the stunning natural beauty and the relaxed atmosphere of the local markets, selling unique souvenirs and gift items. The Village in the Rainforest is open 7 days a week. Prices here were very reasonable up to 1/3 less than you would find in Cairns.

Kuranda Trails

There was plenty of shopping - I visited almost every store. There also were options, at an extra charge to visit a butterfly park - NOT; a wild animal park NOT; and a bird park -NOT. I chose to walk a series of several trails that go around Kuranda. It was warm - downright hot but peaceful. The hat cut down on the sweat coming down my forehead.

Kuranda - walk
most of the trails were
paved or boardwalk

Kuranda Barron River Walk
only this trail was mostly
gravel

Kuranda - walk

Kuranda - Jungle Walk

Skyrail - map There are 2 Station Stops Rainforest/Interpretive Center/Barron Falls
and Red Station

Skyrail - coming into Red Staion

Skyrail - Kuranda Station

SkyRail was conceived is 1987 and after 7 years for paperwork and permits construction began in June 1994. At the end of August 1995 SkyRail opened to the public as a gondola type cable way.

Returned to the hotel around 4:15, took a sweltering walk to the post office to get a box and did laundry.

TUESDAY February 9 2016

Skyrail - Barron Falls
in the background

WEATHER: 27C/81F 84% humidity at 8am, on and off rain all afternoon

Sunrise 6:1x AM – Sunset 8:0x PM

TRAVEL: Free Day- so take a 5 mile walk to a Harley-Davidson dealer in Cairns

With a free day why not go on a 4 km walk in a high temperature-high humidty environment. It took about 50 minutes to walk the 4 km to Harley-Magic, Harley Davidson in Cairns. It took a little longer to walk back – I took a different route along the water and took a side-trip to purchase an insulated carrier for my 22 oz Camelbak water bottle – no more spoiled NPS Passport Stamps due to condensation.

I only made two mistakes this morning – 1) should have worn my hat to control sweat from my forehead and 2) without the hat I should have put sunscreen on my face. Returned to update the blog. Clouded up and drizzled – which raised humidity to 100%.

Rained on and off most of the afternoon – the hat works well. Walked to the post office to mail a package – seemed expensive - air to the USA 5.32 kilograms $111.85 AUS.

WEDNESDAY February 10 2016

WEATHER: 27C/81F 78% humidity in Cairns at 3 am;

Cairns Sunrise 6:09 AM – Ayers Rock Sunset 7:18 PM. It’s a half-hour earlier in Ayers Rock than in Cairns – go figure – so I gained 1/2 hour going west.

TRAVEL: a 5 am arranged pickup at the Pacific Hotel to Cairns Airport. Depart Qantas 7:20 am and arrive Ayers Rock 9:35 am. Transfer operated by AAT Kings to the Voyages Desert Garden Hotel in Yulara, Northern Territory, Australia.

Ayers Rock Resort
Desert Garden Hotel reception

Ayers Rock Resort Town Square
Several restaurants, souvenoir & clothing stores,
tourist reservation office, bank and an IGA

Voyages Desert Gardens Hotel – got here around 10 am; no surprise, the room wasn’t ready but the FREE WIFI is much better than at the Hotel Pacific in Cairns. There appears to be 5 hotels in the resort complex along with several restaurants, stores and an IGA. The town itself has about 900 inhabitants who work for the resort or the park or the tourist industry here..

Greeted by small black flies, at the airport, in the hotel . . . . . . the first pesky flying insects I’ve encountered on the entire trip so far. Not even one mosquito – yet.

Camels - drover

CAMELS TO SOUNDS OF SILENCE – Pick-up time was 5 pm at the hotel to the Uluru

Camel Farm. I didn’t ride the donkeys in Molokai so why not try camels here. A one hour meander through red sand dunes – Sounds of Silence dinner from a viewing platform overlooking Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Live didgeridoo music with alligator, salmon, and kangaroo canapes– a bush tucker dinner of kangaroo and alligator. The wine glass was never empty. An introduction to the southern sky astronomy, followed by dessert and a glass or port – totaling a 5 hour experience.

This was probably the best thing I’ve done so far. Well worth the cost. The camel ride is like going on a horse ride. At the end of the ride there was a guy playing the digeredoo and drinks while the sun set. Then we were led to dinner – with tablecloths.

Jack - my camel

I was seated at a table with 3 Brits and 4 Canadians – travelers all. It was a very enjoyable time and the food was excellent.

Then they turned off the lights on the tables and the sky was a blanket of stars. The clearest I’ve ever seen – half of the sky I had never seen before i.e. Orion was immediately overhead and everything beneath it was new – a southern sky. The Milky Way was very evident and I finally found and saw the Southern Cross along with the Large and Small Magellanic Clouds. A majestic sky.

Cowboy Up! Uluru in the background

Uluru from the back of a camel

Sounds of Silence dinner setup

Cocktails and the music of the
digereedoo

Kata-Tjuta Sunset - I did not visit here. The picture was taken from the cocktail area of the Sounds of Silence dinner

We got back to the hotel around 10:15. Early pickup in the morning fro sunrise.

THURSDAY February 11 2016

WEATHER: 36C/96F 9% humidity at 2pm

Ayers Rock Resort Sunrise 6:38 AM – Sunset 7:31 PM

TRAVEL: early wake up for 5 am hotel pickup – return around 10 am.

ULURU - KATA TJUTA NATIONAL PARK

Today there was a payment of $25 AUS cash National Park Entry Fee.

ULURU SUNRISE & SACRED SIGHTS bus pick-up was at 5am for a 6:38 sunrise. We got to the Uluru sunrise viewing area (Talinguru nyakunytjaku) to watch the sunrise at Red Centre. The Australian Park Service has built some nice walks and viewing platforms. Coffee (instant) and biscuits was provided prior to the walk to the viewing area.

Uluru (Ayers Rock) Sunrise

It was kind of a miserable morning – the high of the evening before had worn off and a runny nose with watery eyes since the last day in Cairns did not help; I batteries in my camera wore out and the extras were back in my room; and when the sun came up the flies came out. The guides were not that interesting or I just didn’t care – at any rate I endured until a return to the hotel at 10 am.

The traditional landowners of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park are a people who in their own language called themselves Anangu (arn-ang-oo).

Kata Tjuta - taken from a web site

The park is managed by a 12 member board. Four are male Anangu; four female Anangu; the Director of National Parks; a representative from the Northern Territory Government; the Federal Minister of Tourism and a Minister for the Environment.

In 1987, Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park was deemed a World Heritage Area recognized for its geological formations, rare plants, animals and natural beauty. In 1994, the park became acclaimed a second World Heritage status for its cultural values.

Uluru is made from a sedimentary sandstone, rich in feldspar. The red color is derived from the iron-oxide in the rock being weathered by water and oxygen.

There were stops. It is possible to climb Uhluru, although discouraged by the local Aborigines who call themselves Anangu. It is a chain walk – rather dangerous – they say 37 have died in the attempt – mostly doing dumb things. The walk has been closed since October, when a protester cut a piece of the chain in an attempt to close the trail to walkers. It still hasn’t been opened. Additionally, Rangers will close it due to high temperatures, or other dangerous conditions. Dry heat - it got close to 100F today.

We drove about half way around on a paved road. There is a 9.2 km track around the base – but I wouldn’t advise it because of the flies – unbearable – maybe I should have bought a net. Many areas are considered “sacred” and photos are not allowed.

We also stopped an took a short walk to a hollowed out portion of Uluru (cave) at the base. Some ancient rock paintings are here. Another short walk took us to a watering hole at the base. This used to be a hunting place for the local Anangu.

Finally, there was a visit to the Cultural Centre-kutu warara pitjama – again where no pictures were allowed – didn’t really need the camera anyway. The artwork still impresses me.

I’ve noticed that there has been no mention of Aborigine tribes going to war with each other since I arrived in Australia. There is always mention of the indigenous people but never talk of war. I queried a person at the Cultural Center, and they confirmed that there has been little conflict in the Australian Aboriginal heritage – else it’s been covered up. There was mention of consequences to individuals and groups who killed another –war. Perhaps, living in the Stone Age wasn’t all that bad. I think this makes the people of Australia unique. Pretty much every other culture of the world on every continent conquered or went to war with their neighbors – there is no mention of slavery. So much for civilization –perhaps there is a lesson to be learned here.

There was an option to climb Uluru or a drive around the base. Te the climb is discouraged because the Ariangu people consider it sacred and prefer that people do not climb Uluru.

In lieu of the climb, the alternative is travel to Multitjulu Walk and an escort to the Multitjulu Waterhole and a visit Uluhuru - Kata Tjuta Cultural Center. If you do the walk you do not see these sites. Finally, a return to the hotel after 5 hours.

I caught up on some sleep and updated the blog.

FRIDAY February 12 2016

WEATHER: 21C/69F 22% humidity at 6 am –high of 100F in Ayers Rock;

17C/63F 83% humidity at 6am – high of 82F in Melbourne ’

Ayers Rock Resort Sunrise 6:29 AM – Melbourne Sunset 8:22 PM; so at 6am Ayers Rock it is 7:30am in Melbourne; MELBOURNE IS 1 ½ hours ahead of AYERS ROCK

TRAVEL: Hotel to Ayers Rock Airport – Qantas flight at 12:00 pm to Melbourne arrival 4:00 pm. – arranged transfer to the Crown Promenade Melbourne. Melbourne is 1.5 hours ahead of Ayers Rock.

Melbourne - view to the left from the
Crown Promenade

The restaurant at the resort had put the wrong charge to my room – it took a while to straighten it out – but the clerk was very accommodating. I missed my bus to the airport but the clerk arranged a private van to the airport. I got to the airporrt before the bus did because it had to stop and load at the other hotels in the resort.

The flight on Jetstar Airways was definitely a ‘no frills’ 2 ½ hour flight. I waited at the airport for over an hour for the transfer van to arrive, SUNBUS – same outfit as in Sydney – adequate but not top of the line. The driver’s been doing this for years but seemed like he just started a week ago. I shared the van with a bunch of Brits, I’m not sure they could understand him either – I sure had trouble. It took almost 1 hr 45 minutes to drive from the airport to the hotel.

Melbourne - view to the right from the
Crown Promenade

Crown Promenade Melbourne in the heart of Melbourne’s Southbank entertainment precinct. This hotel is part of a huge Crown Entertainment Complex – restaurants, two hotels, casino, family activities. A great view of the downtown and the Yarra River from my 18^th floor, floor to ceiling windows – unique

A block away is a river walk – Yarra River. It was Friday night. Plenty of people out and about. I had a burger and a pint of Carlton at a place called Merryweather’s, voted twice the "best burger in Melbourne." Fred’s wouldn’t stand a chance. It was still light at 8:30 pm.

SATURDAY February 13 2016

WEATHER: 17C/63F 82% humidity at 6am, forecast a high of 90F today

Melbourne Sunrise 6:47 AM – Sunset 8:21 PM

TRAVEL: pick up an car from Hertz Downtown Melbourne – drive to Waves, Port Campbell, Victoria, Australia

Heavenly Harley - Melbourne

The car rental from Hertz was all confusion. I crossed the river and walked about ½ hour on Elizabeth St, luckily passing the Heavenly Harley Harley-Davidson dealer (one less stop to make) and arrived at Hertz for my 1030 pickup - - - - there was a very long line – and all these people had reservations - - - after a 1 ¼ hour one hour wait I got to the counter and of course – the car wasn’t ready - - - I asked for a GPS - - - after another 20 minutes I was given the paperwork for the car and told to go downstairs - - - - downstairs – the car was not available it was getting fueled - - - - another 15 minutes and I got the car – plugged in the GPS and it didn’t seem to work – I went back to the counter and got another GPS (another 10 minutes) – I met a man at the Gold Hertz Counter and he said ‘this was worse than Florence (Italy) where they were totally disorganized’ - - - - - the folks here were trying their best but they just had too many cars to process (100 before noon) for the staff to handle. I was compensated free gas . . . . .

Like leaving the theater, after watching Django - sometimes all you can do it laugh, it gets better, The drive back to the Crown was another experience. This Hertz is downtown – cars are picked up on the lower level and you drive up to a narrow divided street – and this street today had construction work on it and as I pulled up there were two car carriers full of autos (most likely for Hertz) to be unloaded – indescribable.

Driving in downtown Melbourne is akin to driving in downtown Chicago – one way streets and it seems like you can’t get there from here. The saving grace is that today is Saturday – only slightly less traffic. Thanks to the GPS I got on the road out of Melbourne rather easily.

Great Ocean Road - Victoria, Australia

Great Ocean Road
Memorial Arch and
Diggers Statue

Traveling west I pulled over to a service stop and went into a Visitor Information Center – best thing I did today. The staff was extremely helpful and gave me a good map and brochure on the Great Ocean Road – exactly where I wanted to go. He suggested the best places to stop and a little preview of what to expect.

GREAT OCEAN ROAD is a memorial to the lost lives and sacrifices of the Australian Diggers in WWI. More than 3,000 returned soldiers built the road from 1919 along the steep cliffs, rugged terrain and bad weather along Victoria’s coastline. The beach towns were joined together. Officially opened in 1932, it breathed life into the beach communities and became a tourist attraction. It stands as the world’s biggest War Memorial. The men built it in honor of their comrades killed in WWI.

Rip Curl in Torquay

TORQUAY is supposedly the birthplace of Australian surfing – well at least it is the capital of the surfing industry in Australia. Bells Beach is the home of Rip Curl and Quicksilver, the Australian National Surfing Museum and a good place to learn how to surf. Winki Pop is for the experienced surfer who will go out beyond the shore beak for consistent, long, fast, walls. Since the 60’s Torquay flourished into the hot spot for all things surfing.

ANGLESEA is where the Great Ocean Road first comes into contact with the ocean. There is a public golf course here where kangaroos are supposedly ‘always’ on the fairway.

The DIGGERS STATUE depicts one of the workers handing another a drink, reflecting the “mateship” that was a part of building the road and the soldiers of WWI. The statue was erected here in 2007.

LORNE a beach community with Erskine Falls a short drive inland. I’ve seen plenty of falls – didn’t feel I wanted to see another.

DEVILS ELBOW reflects the difficulty of building the road out of the solid rock of the cliff face. There was no heavy machinery to break the rock and carry it away. It was done by a combination of manual labor and pack horses.

KENNETT RIVER – is a beach community with a place to see koalas and have girds eat out of your hand.

Great Ocean Road
Point Defiance Lookout

APOLLO BAY another beach community – plenty of surfers. Most of these places were so crowded there really was no place to park – perhaps a visit during the week may be better.

Cape Otway Lightstation is located near Otway National Park. The light was first lit in 1848 using a first order Fresnel lens. It was the second lighthouse completed on mainland Australia and it remains the oldest surviving lighthouse in mainland Australia. It was decommissioned in January 1994 after being the longest continuous operating light on the Australian mainland. There is an admission fee and it is off the Great Ocean Road. It was recommended to stop and see this but I’ve seen plenty of lighthouses – I drove by.

Great Otway National Park - Maits Rest

Great Otway NP
Mait's Rest - forest

OTWAY NATIONAL PARK – Maits Rest Walk – I stopped here to take the walk – no visitor center and as I descended into the forest I noticed or rather heard ‘nothing’ – it was still – quiet – no bird song – I headed back to the car – there is more to a walk than just looking at the forest. The Otway forests hold a proud logging history and have been a timber source for more than 150 years. Timber production peaked in 1961 and has since reduced over the years. The forests here today demonstrate the time needed to re grow and reproduce the giants of the past. I will find plenty of logging trails in the forest tomorrow.

Waves Luxury Suites
Port Campbell

Port Campbell

WAVES LUXURY SUITES in Port Campbell does not have WIFI – at least WIFI that works – I couldn’t connect – weak signal. Billed as “luxury suites” there nothing of a “suite” about this place. The room was clean and cool. Probably the best sleep I’ve had in a week.

I did this trip in about 6 hours with a few stops. You should really take a minimum of two days . . . . just to get to Port Campbell and the National Park

SUNDAY February 14 2016

WEATHER: cool and cloudy, eventually a cold rain when I was visiting sights in Prot Campbell National Park.

TRAVEL: drive back to Melbourne Airport, drop off car, fly Qantas 6:15 pm to Auckland arrival 11:55 pm. NZ transfers drop off at the Skycity Hotel Auckland,

I was on time for mass at St. Joseph’s located about 25 minutes up the road in Timboon, however, mass in only held on the 1^st and 3^rd Sunday of the month. I was obviously late for the late service at 9am. I said a rosary and returned to Port Campbell.

Port Campbell NP
Loch Ard Gorge

Port Campbell National Park - I drove back along the Great Ocean Road to visit Port Campbell NP. Port Campbell National Park is world famous for its extraordinary collection of wave-sculpted rock formations and the Twelve Apostles.

Loch Ard Gorge

Loch Ard Gorge is the site of a 19th century shipwreck ‘Loch Ard’, as well as the Island Archway and London Bridge are other highlights. The Island Archway collapsed in 2009, highlighting the fragile and ever-changing nature of Victoria’s coastline. There is a trail to the beach.

The Razorback

Razorback

There is a Visitor Center and large parking lot for the Twelve Apostles. It was Closed – there may have been a plumbing problem. A ranger couldn’t give me an answer. It was still pouring when I got here.

Some of the Twelve Apostles
This picture was taken witha stonr wind and
rain in my face

There are seven rock stacks that comprise the Twelve Apostles. Originally there were eight rock stacks when named the Twelve Apostles, however, one of the stacks collapsed dramatically in July 2005. The views in the photos are unique – because they were taken in a pouring rain..

Beautiful

The Twelve Apostles were originally called The Sow and Piglets. The Sow was Mutton Bird Island, which stands at the entrance to Loch Ard Gorge and her Piglets were the numerous rock stacks located along the coast, including the Twelve Apostles. There are many more spectacular limestone rock stacks along the Shipwreck Coast.

The traditional Aboriginal owners of Victoria are acknowledged by the Park Service. However it isn’t as seem as informative or evident as in the other states of Australia.

45 minutes of roads like this
leading to who knows wear
I did see kangaroos

I set the NAVMAN GPS for Hertz Melbourne Airport but after 45 minutes of dirt farm and logging roads I thought – enough adventure, I’ve got to get to the airport. I reset to locate to Cobden and after 20 minutes got back on a paved highway. I certainly saw parts of Australia that most people, who live here, never see.

I got to Hertz about 4:15 pm; after another 20 minutes Hertz personnel here figured out how not to charge me for the gas, I returned with the tank almost empty – unfortunately in the ‘rush’ or ‘confusion’ I left my hat and a pair of reading glasses on the passenger seat . I really don’t expect Hertz to contact me regarding the hat and glasses. They can be replaced

I finished reading “We’ll Always Have the Movies: American Cinema During World War II” - University Press of Kentucky. This was a book I purchased at the War In The Pacific National Historic Park - Guam. It was a good read and brought back many memories of the films I watched on TV as a kid – many of which were WWII vintage. As kids, it seemed we were fascinated with war . . . . after all our dad’s had all fought in WW II, the films painted the picture of war, how and why we fought it, and how our enemies fought it. That was the goal of the films when they were released during the war. They filled in the gaps of the stories untold. It was a good read – an in depth study of the films of the era – very enjoyable.

A driver, with my name on a tablet, was waiting for me after customs at the airport – he looked at his sheet and took me to the Rydges – wrong hotel – my fault I thought it was the SkyCity. Luckily, it was not raining and the two block walk ‘after midnight’ was OK. – only slightly uphill.

MONDAY February 15 2016

WEATHER: 22C/72F 64% humidity, at 10 am, cloudy, forecast for the upper 70’s

Sunrise 6:51 AM – Sunset 8:19 PM

TRAVEL: Auckland – recovery

Didn’t get to sleep until 1:30 , slept in until 9:30 this morning.

SKYCITY HOTEL – Auckland – I don’t think I’m even going to bother to see all of this place. Like the Crown Complex in Melbourne – 2 hotels, 25 restaurants, convention center and the Sky Tower, retail shops, and 2 casinos. I’m only looking for a place to do laundry and relax. Free WIFI – very fast. Oh, this hotel does not offer a self-service laundry.

HERTZ - fitting that I coulnd't make
this smaller

I walked 3 blocks to Hertz to explain my dilemma. After I got the clerk to understand that my hat and glasses were left at the Hertz Airport location in Melbourne he replied – “Oh, you have to contact them yourself – We have nothing to do with them.’ So much for World Wide Hertz – I remember that Avis advertising used to say ‘We Try Harder’. Well, Hertz doesn’t know what the word SERVICE means – they don’t even try anymore.

The desk staff and concierge at SkyCity aren’t the sharpest tacks in the box. They were of little help when I asked fro directions to the Auckland War Memorial Museum. They directed me to a bus or a cab – I asked fro walking direction. It was a one hour uphill walk to the museum – but I saw the city. There are 3 ½ million people in New Zealand, about 1 ½ million live in the Auckland area. Not impressed – reminded me of San Francisco – mostly cloudy, old and dirty with hills.

The Auckland War Museum is
surrounded by a very large park
still celebrating Chinese New Year

Auckland War Memorial Museum

I spent 3 hours at the Auckland War Memorial Museum , admission was $25 NZD. There are three floors: The Ground Level is devoted to People of the Pacific, Special Exhibits and the Maori. The 1^st level examines New Zealand’s Stories of Land & Sea, the 2^nd

level tells the stories of New Zealand’s wars. The Wars of the 19^th Century involve war with the Maori and the Boer War, followed by WWI – and WWII and UN peacekeeping. This is an Auckland museum not a New Zealand museum – I think you can notice the difference – nice but not to the highest standard. There is a significant exhibit on Volcanoes. New Zealand exists because of volcanic activity – San Francisco will experience another earthquake; Auckland, in due time, expects another volcanic eruption.

I did buy 2 books: Gallipoli and Wars Without End: The Land Wars in Nineteenth-century New Zealand.

TUESDAY February 16 2016

Auckland Harley-Davidson

WEATHER: 20C/68F at 9am, 83% humidity, forecast for light rain; travel about 200 km to the east Whitianga where the forecast is similar – cloudy without rain. Few suntans here in New Zealand.

Auckland Sunrise 6:52 AM – Whitianga Sunset 8:13 PM

TRAVEL: Pick up a vehicle from Hertz Auckland Downtown. Hertz did not have a GPS available – another downer for Hertz. – Another thumbs down for Hertz - dissapointing -getting out of Auckland and to the Harley-Davidson dealer was easy. Unfortunately, I missed the turn off for Highway 2 – I eventually figured that out and turned around – lost an hour – even on the turn-around, I had to ask instructions to locate Highway 2 – It is not well marked. Highway 2 to Highway 25.

I decided to change the planned route and drove to Thames, following Highway 25 along the coast to Coromandel. It was cloudy – sometimes a sprinkle – it would be a wonderful drive when clear. Glad I did this or I would have missed a lot.

New Zealand - Manaia Area

The dirve reminded me a little bit of the drive around the island of Maui – narrow roads – one way bridges – drive along the flat and through the mountains. Out of Auckland, it’s like driving in the caldera of a volcano – much older than any of Hawaii’s. Remnants of cinder cones covered in grass it is very obvious. The Maori are Polynesian and the place names reflect that heritage – like Hawaii – way too many vowels.

New Zealnd - Manaia area

I did not stop in Coromandel – thought I may come back tomorrow so I continued through the mountains to Marina Park Apartments, Whitianga (POP 4,000),

Coromandel is top left

Welcome to Whitianga
sign by the marina

MARINA PARK APARTMENTS – I arrived about 5pm. These were not easy to find – a small sign – frustration of not having a GPS. This place is a a completely furnished apartment adjacent to the Marina and 2 blocks from shopping, restaurants, etc. It has a washer and dryer. I took advantage of the facility this time and went to a supermarket to purchase some bread, juice, fruit for at least breakfasts and lunch. Free WIFI.

Whitianga is about a 200 km drive east and a little north – on Mercury Bay - the opposite coast of the island. A resort village, dive shops, surf shops, shopping . . . . A map of New Zealand will help

WEDNESDAY February 17 2016

WEATHER: 21C/70F 83% humidity at 8 am. Cloudy, it rained early this morning – more to come. High of 77F Sunrise 6:49 AM – Sunset 8:13 PM

TRAVEL: Coromandel Peninsula – New Zealand

Hot Water Beach map - the village is located in the gray by the car park/restrooms
There is also a beach here - most people come here because it is in the village
The picture below was taken at the beach near the car park in the upper right hand corner of the map

Another pleasant sleep. First time, since I started travelling again in January, where I didn’t need an air conditioner, slept with the windows open.

This is Hot Water Beach looking toward the village

Beaches, surfing, fishing, and diving appear to be the big draw for this area. I haven’t seen any Asians in this area – French and German but not the overabundance of Chinese that were in Auckland and Australia.

Hot Water Beach – Hot Springs bubble up through the sand two hours either side of low tide – some will dig their own private spa pool. I arrived about 3 hours after low tide – saw people with spades but no one was soaking in the water. I’ve read that the water can be scalding hot. They have pay parking lots here . . . . a few restaurants and some artist galleries.

Cathedral Cove Overlook View from the top - the start of the trail
The track is not all up or all down but continuously up & down

Cathedral Cove Walk – I was lucky enough to get a parking space at the top parking lot – if I would have had to walk the mile uphill to get there I may have thought twice about it. As it was the trail was up and down – this is where the story of “I walked to school uphill both’ ways when I was a kid” comes from. It was up and down “uphill both ways” and of course there was a brief shower – a warm rain – not the chill of Sunday’s walk in Port Campbell NP, Victoria, Australia. I did work up a sweat on this trail – could have used my hat . . . .

Cathedral Cove Trail - Puriri Grove
especially magical and musical and rugged

Cathedral Cove

There was a grove of trees on this trail that was especially beautiful – an uphill climb but the trail was alive with sounds of the forest – particularly along a portion of the trail through Puriri Grove - cicadas along with something that goes ‘click-clack’ like the sound of rain just starting to hit the trees – music for ears.

Gemstone Bay

Captain Cook Monument
Shakespeare Cliff Overlook

A walk to Gemstone Bay is a snorkeling spot – yes, it was down one way and up the other. With the water coming in as high as it was – today would not be my day to go snorkeling.

Shakespear Cliff Reserve - view of Cook Beach

Hahei and Hahei Beach – might have been more exciting on a better day – just another beach..

There are plenty of walks on Coromandel Peninsula – most of them involve going down and coming back up.

Shakespeare Cliff and the Captain Cook Monument – use your imagination as to why it’s called Shakespeare. . . . . this place boasted ergonomically designed steps.

Map Shakespeare Reserve && Cooks Beach
Captain Cook anchored here to observe the planet Mercury cross the face of the sun
Hence - Mercury Bay - Whitianga is to the left but there is only a people ferry to get you there

The Ferry - Whitianga is on the other side
but a 40 minute drive arournd is required to get a car there

Did I say this part of New Zealand
reminded me of Wisconsin?

THURSDAY February 18 2016

WEATHER: 70’s on and off rain, rained from Hobbiton to Rotorua.

Whitianga Sunrise 6:50 AM – Rotorua Sunset 8:10 PM

TRAVEL: Marina Park Apartments to Hobbiton Movie Set Tours (The Shire’s Rest, 501 Buckland Rd, Matamata to the Sudima Hotel, Lake Rotorua, (1000 Eruera St)

Follow this route – Whitianga to Taiahu to Paeroa to Te Aroha to Tatuanui to Matamata to Hobbiton to Rotorua via Pukutua – Amonau – Hinemaru and finally to 1000 Eruera Street – I’ll be lucky to get there – way too many vowels. Spell check has a field day. Driving itself is an adventure.

Hobbiton

Marina Park Apartments – most places I’ve stayed have instant coffee . . . . most in Australia served Nescafe in small tubular shaped packets – I never did like Nescafe – still don’t - but here at Marina Park they serve something like coffee crystals – at least it tastes like coffee.

HOBBITON MOVIE SET TOUR – I called on Wednesday to confirm the tour – there was no record of my name. I signed up for the noon tour allowing a 3hour drive and an hour of lost time . . . rained most of the way on and off . . . . left Whitianga 0730 arrived Hobitton 1105 only had to ask for directions twice.

Hobbit Holes

Hobbiton

Bilbo Baggins Hobbit Hole

When I arrived they had found my reservation . . . . . it was for 1 pm but I took the noon tour anyway - - - - - not up to professional standards It did not rain while I was on the 2 hour tour. The Shire was originally built for The Fellowship of the Ring and was supposed to be dismantled . . . . . . I’m not sure what followed but eventually a business deal between the owner of the land and Peter Jackson was worked out – especially for the making of the Hobbit – so today the movie set exists for the profit of the land owner. Not much else to say about it . . . . . even the gift shop was short on goods – emphasis on the Hobbit, not the Ring Trilogy. The views are wonderful - somehow I was compelled to take a lot of pictures. The best part of the tour was the visit to the Green Dragon for a pint of ale before we left.

Bridge & Mill from front of the Green Dragon Inn

Green Dragon Inn

Green Dragon Inn - Old Brown

Somehow the enchantment and magic just didn’t seem to be there. The guide was really just someone to follow around , could have done the whole visit in less than an hour alone . . . . perhaps - it would be nice if the sun came out – haven’t really seen the sun since last week Saturday in Melbourne.

Suimda Hotel - the blue auto is my rental
It has a lion for a logo - no idea who
makes it. My room is 2nd floor 3rd
from the left

The SUDIMA HOTEL is on Lake Rotorua – an otherwise nice place except for the smell of sulphur – the Polynesian Spa and Sulphur Point are just several hundred yards away – stronger than anything I have ever experienced at Volcanoes or Yellowstone National Parks.

View of Lake Roturua, Sulphur Point &
the Polynesian Spa from my hotel
balcony

The Sudima is close to the downtown and once had to be a prime spot but it reminds me of a Holiday Inn that was refurbished in the 70’s – this is 2016 – if the mattress sagged anymore I may expect to be sucked in by Freddy Krueger. WIFI is available but only for two hours during the 3 night stay – really? I’ll use my 2 hours in the morning to update the blog and banking. Cable TV is not a solid - the picture and sound keep going in and out. The restaurant doesn’t look that appealing. I stopped at the Novotel for directions to this place – I think the Novotel was much better closer to downtown – no smell of sulphur or view of the lake. It’s clean, but the Sudima does not meet the standards that I’ve grown accustomed to on this trip. Staff here, like at Ayers Rock, are all young – appear to be in training. At least the coffee isn’t Nescafe.

FRIDAY February 19 2016

WEATHER: 70’s - cloudy looks like rain again . . . a short rain around 3 pm and then the clouds began to clear. Rotorua Sunrise 6:48 AM – Sunset 8:09 PM

TRAVEL: Sudima Hotel to Te Puia; this was a 10-15 minute drive, I almost walked –kind of glad I didn’t – 4-5 miles one way

I accidentally deleted all Friday and Saturday photos. Photos below are of posters. takne on Sunday.

TE PUIA is a combination nature and cultural park. Te Puia is the site of a Maori Village. From what I understand “Te Puai pa” means fortified settlement. This was home to a Maori tribe for hundreds of years.

I arrived about 11:20 am and stayed about 3 hours. I was scheduled for a guided tour at noon, the guide was of Maori heritage. She was excellent. The Maori language uses about half of the English alphabet. The vowels are a(ahh) e(ae) i(ah) o(oh) u(ooo) – to me this is Polynesian/Hawaiian. As she said just a matter of getting used to the pronunciation. As a sidebar: people here speak English but with the accent I’m not sure what language it is sometimes – people also will switch their speech between English and some other language – just difficult to understand. Of course people have trouble understanding me.

There was a tribal greeting at the marae, tribal greeting place, held in front of the wharenui, (meeting house). Here the Maori chief would greet visitors to the Village, while warriors waited in hiding to slay the visitors if they had bad intentions. The greeting is rather intimidating. Before battle the Maori would go through a series of moves to intimidate their opponent – perhaps cause them to think twice before attacking. The sticking out of the tongue tells the enemy/opponent I will eat you/I will beat you. I did learn a traditional Maori greeting is to touch noses twice; the first to recognize the body-physical, the second to join the spirit.

There is a national carving and weaving school here. People of Maori heritage audition for entry annually. Usually, 60-80 apply and 2-3 are selected for the carving school of 2 years. It is expected that the graduate goes back to his area and instruct others in carving. The weaving school is a 3 years scholarship, usually a carver will learn to become a weaver – by this time they are true artists.

There is a kiwi enclosure – the flightless kiwi must be the national bird of New Zealand – apparently a nocturnal animal.

The big draw here is the thermal springs, mud springs, and geysers. The Pohutu geyser is the largest geyser in the southern hemisphere. She erupts once or twice an hour and can reach a height of 100 feet. Again, the smell of sulphur was evident.

I walked a good protion – maybe all of the Ngararatuatara Track – a hike through the bush past the Ngararatuatara cooking pool and Lake Waikaukau.

Overall, this was a pleasant experience. My ticket did not include the “cultural performance’ of Maori song and dance. When I completed by tour and walk it was too late to sign up for one of these performances. There is an evening “steam box” dinner (some of the foods are cooked in steam boxes near the thermal vents) available.

SATURDAY February 20, 2016

WEATHER: sunny at 6 am – high supposed to be in the 80’s

TRAVEL: Sudima Hotel to Waitomo & Aranui Caves. Travel to Waitomo Caves took 3 ½ hours the return trip took 2 hours. Have I mentioned that New Zealand roads are not, in my opinion, marked very well. The return is the route I should have taken – it was easier getting back because I had already gone in a circle to Hamilton and then back to Cambridge – a loss of 1 ½ hours – I had left early enough to allow for the possibility. A GPS would have made it easier.

Oh well – it was bound to happen I accidentally deleted 79 pictures of Te Puia and Waitomo caves. I thought I had transferred them to the hard drive of the computer. Actually, that is sad. These were some good pictures.

There are over 300 caves in the Waitomo area. Only 7 of them are open to exploration. There are 3 in this area: Waitomo Glowworm, Aranui and Ruakuri. There must be others that offer a cave tubing black water rafting experience. Somehow, a dry suit, booties and sitting in an inner tube floating down a cave river just doesn’t seem right.

The Aranui Cave Tour was scheduled for 1 pm. The tour guide was outstanding. Pictures were allowed in this limestone living cave. The gate was of a spider type seen in several US caves. The walk and stairs were recently redone with non-slip material. Perhaps the best cave tour I’ve been on. There were only 9 of us on the tour. The guide’s grandmother worked here at the cave serving tea to tourist for 23 years. Electricity was brought into the cave in 1927. LED lights are now used in the cave to reduce growth of algae.

In 1910, a Maori named Ruruku Aranui and his dog chasing a wild pig discovered a new cave in the bush. The wild pig disappeared into a hole in the side of a hill and the dog followed. It’s barking led Ruruku to the hole and crawling inside he discovered a cavern.

Ruruku ran back to the hotel in town and reported the find to Tourist Minister. The cave was on government land and the cave was named after him.

Waitomo means “water entering a hole in the ground”.

Local Maori had long known of the existence of caves in the Waitomo region. However, they chose not to reveal their secret until 1887, when Chief Tane Tinorau was persuaded to explore the Waitomo Glovwworm Caves by an English surveyor , Fred Mace. They floated into the cave via the Waitomo River on a raft of flax stems with candles, as their only lighting.

Soon after their entry they became aware of a multitude of glowworm light around them. They returned many times and discovered limestone formations in dry parts of the cave.

Government surveyors mapped the cave and in 1889 the cave was opened to visitors. The upper (dry) part of the cave in not impressive – in fact it appears to be a dead cave – years of early tourist exploration have dried/killed the formations – there is evidence of many broken stalactites taken as souvenirs.

However, after being cautioned to be quite – you board a boat in the dark and begin a short journey through a magical ceiling of glowworms. I’ve never seen anything like it. It was almost as bright as the night at Ayers Rock – a ceiling full of small glowing dots. Almost as if they were painted luminescence. Queen Elizabeth visited here in 1953.

SUNDAY February 21 2016

WEATHER: sunny to partly cloudy most of the day – it was warm when the sun was out but not hot - pleasant Sunrise Rotorua 6:49 AM – Sunset Whakapapa 8:10 PM

TRAVEL: Sudima Hotel to Chateau Tongariro, Mt. Ruapehu, New Zealand. This is a 233 km trip and should take about 3 hours. I did better than expected – it was a 2 ½ trip only mildly made a wrong turn once. It is difficult because as you travel a road it is not marked – i.e. you really don’t know what road you are on until you get to a Rotary which may tell what roads are in the Rotary.

St. Michaels - Rotorura

8 am Mass at St. Michael’s in Rotorua. Finding this church was a series of directions in the wrong direction. I asked the hotel desk and tourist office for directions to the nearest Catholic Church. There were 2: St. Mary’s and St. Michael’s – after almost 5 miles of walking to the wrong places on Friday afternoon , I found St. Mary’s by accident on my way out of town on Saturday – Mass was at 10 am. It had the address of St. Michael’s, mass at 8 am, and by now I was familiar enough with the central area of Rotorua to find it myself.

The priest had a high voice – English Vicar-like –less than a hundred in attendance. I was distracted by his reading to the point I’m not sure what the gospel was. Very short sermon but I caught transfiguration. There was a Maori influence on the inside - carved frames for the stations - banners weaving.

Chateau Tongariro - Mt. Ruapehu in the background

Chateau Tongariro is located within the Whakapapa Village in the heart of Tongariro National Park. I’m sure this hotel is older than that Sudima but much more elegant and maintained. Close to if not 5 stars. Wonderful mature staff – the café/piano lounge is opposite the main dining room. There is also a dining room/cafe on the lower level. Menus are different. When I arrived there was a man playing piano in the lounge – he played through the entire afternoon and early evening. Elegant! I feel like I should have a gin and tonic. WIFI is free and it works – slow but solid. There is a sauna and pool here – and a guest laundry. Nice room.

Tongariro National Park Visitor Center

National Park Village borders the dual World Heritage Tongariro National Park (Tongariro Crossing) to the east and the Whanganui National Park to the West, in the middle of a true wilderness wonderland. There is not much there. The Village is located near the base of Mt Ruapehu, at the intersection of SH4 & SH47 on the volcanic plateau, half way between Auckland and Wellington. It boasts great views of all three mountains, Mt Tongariro, Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom in the Lord of the Rings filming locations) and Mt Ruapehu - a unique dual world heritage area, 300,000 years in the making.

The Tongariro National Park is the home to the three mountains of Ruapehu, the largest mountain in the north island, Ngauruhoe the youngest volcano and Tongariro whose landscape has developed over the last 300,000 years. The world famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a 19km hike over Mt Tongariro, taking you from herb fields to forest with tranquil lakes, track information, accommodation, shuttles, supplies are all available in National Park Village.

People come from all around the world to do the Tongariro Crossing, but there are many other wonderful walks from 10 minutes to 6 hours which are just as outstanding, some may even say better! The Skyline, Crater Lake and meads wall are all spectacular hikes starting high up at the Whakapapa ski field on Mt Ruapehu. When I drove up to the ski lodge, there was something of a race down the mountain going on – what looked like BIG WHEELS for grownup dare devils. I didn’t stick around to watch the accidents. There are three summit trips to Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom from the Lord of the rings). Obviously, I didn’t have time to do much hiking.

Mounds Walk

Mounds Walk - Mt. Ruapehua about 12,000 years ago it
caused a landslide avalanche that brought some of the
mountain down - you can see where most of it stopped

Tongariro National Park is an exciting adventure playground for hiking, biking, rafting, skiing, a place of extremes, a place you can explore from National Park Village. Plenty of hiking here for days. It boasts to be the world’s 4^th National Park established in 1894.

Tawhai Falls Walk

Tawhai Falls

Mt Ruapehu has two of the largest ski fields in New Zealand, with Whakapapa and Turoa. Whakapapa is the larger.

Big wheel coming down the road

I walked two short trails – your could spend several days here hiking. I just enjoyed two beers at a stop just down the road with a wonderful view of Mt. Ngauruhoe – a conical volcano. Reminded me watching and waiting for Krakatoa but this was in a much cooler climate. Mt. Ngauruhoe was Mt. Doom of Jackson’s vision of Middle Earth. While sitting here – those BIG WHEELS came down the road.

Mt. Ngauruhoe

Moon over Mt. Ngauruhoe

Scenic Hotel Te Pania

MONDAY February 22 2016

WEATHER: a mixed bag with a cool start 4C/40F at Whakapapa (Mt. Tongariro National Park) and sunny – Napier forecasts a high of 70 today. Some rain and got cooler between Tapua and Hawkes Bay. In Napier, the sun came out around 1pm.

Whakapapa Sunrise 6:51 AM – Napier Sunset 8:05 PM

TRAVEL: Chateau Tongarro, Mt. Ruapehu to Scenic Hotel Te Pania, Napier, New Zealand. The drive took about 3 ½ hours. I only made one wrong turn – same place I made the turn yesterday – today I just blew by it.

Scenic Hotel Te Pania is on the edge of Hawkes Bay immediately across from the War Memorial. A nice hotel. Free WIFI. Again in the central business district – where it’s all happening. The room wasn’t ready until 2 pm so, as planned, I visited two wineries.

Napier looking south from the Village of Hawkes Bay - the docks are on the left

Mission Estate Winery

Mission Estates

Wineries and vineyards here do not necessarily offer tours but they do have tasting rooms – cellar doors. The desk clerk at the hotel suggested tow wineries: Mission Estate Winery and Esk Valley Estate. There are 32 wineries in Hawkes Bay – climate and sunshine established the region as ideal for fruit growing – similar to California. Hawkes Bay is best known for its Bordeaux Blends and Chardonnay.

Mission Estates – is the oldest winery in New Zealand with vines first planted by the Marist missionaries in 1851. It offers tours twice a day – I missed both of them – but I did taste the Savignon, Spakling wine, and Syrah. It did cost $5 but I got a glass to keep.

A drive up the road and a visit to the Esk Valley Estate also had a fee of $5 for tasting but the guy didn’t really charge me. There was a blend of Merlot/Syrah/Melbac that was very good – I almost bought six bottles but thought the better of it. I did by a logo glass, at least now I have a pair from New Zealand.

Esk Valley Estate vineyards

There is more to see in the area, but I checked into my hotel, did laundry and updated the blog.

TUESDAY February 23 2016

WEATHER: 16C/61F in Napier at 6am, should reach the high 70’s, cooler in Queenstown, it should be in the upper 60’s when I get there

Napier Sunrise 6:47 AM – Queenstown Sunset 8:44 PM

TRAVEL: Hotel Te Pania, Napier to Hapier-Hastings Airport, New Zealand (north island) for a 2:05 pm Air New Zealand (NZ8475) flight to Christchurch, New Zealand (south island) transfer to a 4:15 pm Air New Zealand (NZ5381) flight to Queenstown and a shuttle to the Accor-Novotel Lakeside. All the flights were exactly on time. I had to return the car by 10:30 am – good thing I had several books to read.

A day of ease – started and finished a short book called Gallipoli : A guide to New Zealand Battlefields and Memorials (2004) that I purchased at the Auckland Museum.

Novotel - Queenstown

Accor-Novotel Lakeside – this will be home for the next 4 nights - a fine hotel. WIFI works. The staff is excellent. I received 2 $50 NZ certificates good for dinner at the hotel restaurant – basically 2 dinners balances are not transferable. I received as part of a promotion that was on when the agent made the booking last year.

Novotel Queenstwon - courtyard

There was a young concierge named Tom, who was excellent. I stopped by his desk and his confirmed my activities for the next three days. While there I queried about a Lord of the Rings ½ day tour to Glenorchy. He said it depends on the weather – so I chanced it for tomorrow after the Sky Gondola ride up Bob’s Peak. I may still consider attending Kiwi Haka, a Maori Cultural Experience, on Bob’s Peak.

Queenstown
Sky Glide Gondola
Bob's Peak

Queenstown - Lake Wakatipu

The Novotel Lakeside is adjacent to Lake Wakatipu – again a location in the middle of the happening area of town. There are plenty of restaurants and shops within a block or two. Queenstown is advertised as set against the Southern Alps of New Zealand – no wonder why this is what I imagine Switzerland is like. Plenty of adventure sports available – besides, rafting, biking, paragliding and winter back-country skiing – the Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge is among bungee jumping’s original sites.

The surrounding Central Otago region is known for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards. I won’t have time to visit.

WEDNESDAY February 24 2016

WEATHER: 14C/57F at 5 am, 82% humidity, forecast calls for high of 70 mostly cloudy Sunrise 7:14 AM – Sunset 8:43 PM

TRAVEL: Walk to the Skyway for a 9:30 am ride up. Several trails at the top. There was a suggested 1 ½ hour walk down. Pick up at the hotel for the Pure Glenorchy Scenic Lord of the Rings tour at 1:45. Returned about 6:30 pm.

Skyline - Queenstown Station

This is not a clear picture
but this is the trail down
traverse - cable and very steep

SKYLINE GONDOLA RIDE to Bob’s Peak above Queenstown. This is a steep cableway. Rising 1,463 feet over a distance of 2,393 feet - that’s close to a 37% grade – very steep. I had considered walking down, but the ride up convinced me that it would be way too hazardous – worse than the rope ascent/descent on American Samoa. I saw the trail – a series of switchbacks with a cable rope the entire way – and it really didn’t look secure in the traverse. Adventure is what this place offers – a walk down would be a real adventure.

Queenstown & Lake Wakatipu - from the top of the Skyline Gondola

The luge track

View looking up the valley - the road leads to the ski
slopes and the Shotover River

There is bungi jumping and hang gliding and a better option is a luge track. Actually, it isn’t quite like the winter Olympics luge. New Zealanders must have an affinity to rolling down hills – like the Big Wheels at Mt. Ruapehu – only this is on a track with 4 wheel carts – actually it looked like it could have been fun.

Great views! There are several hikes here. I started up one trail and up, up, up it wnet and without a map or knowing how long it was – where it went – I didn’t stay on the trial very long. Even so I spent a little over 2 hours here.

The edge of the Mirkwood Forest
(Paradise Valley)

PURE GLENORCHY LORD OF THE RINGS SCENIC TOUR – Glenorchy is located at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu. The Village of Glenorchy with a population of 200 is framed by the what in the Lord of the Rings are the Misty Mountains. Glenorchy serves as the gateway to Mt. Aspiring National Park which is also part of Te Wahipounama (South West New Zealand World Heritage Areae ). There are many walking tracks (trails) here. The location was used to create Beorn’s House in the The Hobbit. Up the Dart River the

Location of Amon Hen and the
Lothlorien Forest

woods became the setting for Mirkwood. After Lord of the Rings made the area famous several other films have been made here to include The Chronicles of Narnia, Prince Caspian, Wolverine and the most recent Taylor Swift video.There were only 3 on the tour – the driver was outstanding. The two girls on the tour were from Los Angeles – one a PhD in bio-engineering – now doing whatever ‘ the other an theater major – “and all the stars, that never were, are parking cars and pumping gas” --- or traveling in New Zealand.

I bought a small The Lord of the Rings Location Guidebook. The photos in the larger version of this book were used by the guide to show that what we were looking at were used in the movie. He also provided some interesting background stories. Each of us o received a CD with about 60 clear day pictures – I think I’ll let the pictures tell the story.

Sire location of the Dead Marshes - most filming was done in Wellington Studios

Site location (background) for Isengard

Like Yoda - Watching the swordplay

Determination in the Lothlorian Forest
They actually painted the small leaves of these native
beech trees to bring on the Golden Forest appearance

THURSDAY February 25 2016

WEATHER: in the low 60’s most of the day, rain in the afternnon

Sunrise 7:15 AM – Sunset 8:41 PM

TRAVEL: a short 4 block walk to the bus pickup station

The raft crew - Chief in the white helmet
The girl behind me is an Olympic swummer

CHALLENGE RAFTING – Met a bus about 4 blocks from the hotel to catch an 8:15 am ride to the base of the rafting adventure. There we were sent through a production line to get wet suit bottom, tops, booties, a paddle, helmet and life jacket. Then we got an the bus again and drove 40 minutes through what might have been Skipper’s Canyon to unload the rafts and begin the adventure on the Shotover River.

The river was named Shotover by the first

Skipper Canyon - Shotover River

European, William Gilbert Rees to settle on the shores of Lake Wakatipu in 1860. He named it after his business partner, George Gammie's English estate, Shotover Park. It was also referred to as the Overshot by the early gold miners, but it was the name Shotover that stuck. The area was once home to a gold rush in 1862. Remnants of that era are in the area. The road is narrow and winding through some beautiful countryside.

Add caption

White Water

The group was divided to man the 5 or 6 rafts, each with a guide. Our guide’s name was “Chief”. The water was fast moving as it wound though the narrow and steep Skipper Canyon. The wet suits were nice to have – the water was cool but not cold –probably in the low 60’s – I never asked the temperature of the water. We went through several rapids classified as 3 or 4 – still nothing compared to the Little Pigeon River in the Great Smokies or the New River Gorge in West Virginia. Chief never explained anything about the river or the formations or the name or the rapids were travelling. The group was fun - - - the trip took about 2 hours.

At the end I bought the video and pictures – that’s what is displayed here

FRIDAY February 26 2016

WEATHER: 17C/63F 62% humidity cloudy at 6 am , good chance of rain

Sunrise 7:17 AM – Sunset 8:39 PM

TRAVEL: bus pickup at hotel to Milford Sound

Unfortunately this is not a clear picture -sorry

This tour was advertised as follow: Discover Milford Sound Coach-Cruise-Coach - The pristine Milford Sound is part of the World Heritage Fiordland National Park, in the south west of the South Island, and is famed for its pristine natural beauty and remote atmosphere. It is New Zealand’s best known fiord and the only one that can be reached by road. Maori are believed to have discovered Milford Sound more than 1,000 years ago, returning seasonally to collect the prized pounamue (greenstone). The fiord extends 15km inland from the wild Tasman Sea and is regularly visited by wildlife including penguins, seals and dolphins. pounamu (greenstone).

Cascading waterfalls, sheer rock faces and dense rainforest. Your sightseeing tour to Milford Sound is made even more enjoyable by our glass-roofed coaches, which provide spectacular panoramic views as you travel along the Milford Road – one of the world's most scenic roads – and through the Homer Tunnel, before arriving for your Milford Sound cruise. Enjoy striking views of iconic Mitre Peak from the head of the Sound – it rises 1,692 metres from the south shore and is named for its resemblance to a bishop’s mitre (head dress).

My description of this tour is: Almost a 6 hour bus ride (some through pouring rain) , to have a buffet lunch on a boat (in a pouring rain) and the best water park ride I’ve ever been on. Even the 4+ hour ride back was enjoyable. At least when rafting yesterday, they to to bring a towel and a change of clothes.

Kawarau River flowing out of
Lake Wakatipu - Queenstown in the
background

I boarded the bus at my hotel at 7:10 am – there were 14 people on board. By the time the pickups were finished it was at least 8 am as we headed out of Queenstown and it’s suburbs to Milford Sound.

The Remarkables along
Lake Wakatipu

We crossed the Kawarau River Bridge, which I found out was an outlet for Lake Wakatipu. The Kawarau River also offered rafting and was the sight for several filming locations in the Lord of the Rings. – traveled along the face of the Remarkables with Lake Wakatipu on the right..

The Steeples

Saw a RAINBOW over Queenstown. Travelled through Kingston - on the other end of Lake Wakatipu – on to Garston to a range called the Steeples once sight of a goldmine.

The driver provided an excellent narration. I learned some more Kiwi phrases:

“irrigator” = irrigation system

“sheep are shifted by musters” = moved by drovers/cowboys

“a right hander” = a right turn

“milk works” = dairy

“a good possum is a squashum” = roadkill

“shootout” = hunt

“walk” = hike

“musterer” = cowboy

“running rocks” = falling rocks

“steep and deep country, steep as a hens face”

Turned west onto SH 97 and saw another RAINBOW to Five Rivers flat a farming/dairy region. Interesting deer, as well as cattle, are raised here for slaughter as meat. We hit some rain and another RAINBOW.

Lake Te Anua

We entered Fjiordlands National Park and stopped around 10 am at Te Anua on Lake Te Anua. Here we entered a 78 mile stretch of road with 420 :kinks and corner” on the road to Milford Sound

Cabbage Trees were named by Capt. Cook because their leaves provided some vitamins to sailors and the boiled water tasted like cabbage water.

Eglinton River Valley

Entering Fjiordland National Park we drove through the Eglinton River Valley (Flats) and

Christy Falls

made a short stop at Mirror Lake. With the rain there was not much mirror effect reflecting the mountains. Past a sign indicating 45 Latitude South – midway between the South Pole and the Equator. Another short relief stop at Knobs Flat. Continued the drive along the Hollyford River and passing Christy Falls. Learned that moss can hold up to 25x it’s weight in water and we started into a valley that had to be Peter Jackson’s inspiration for Rivendell – waterfalls everywhere – with the rain there were even more than without rain. Right here I believed the trip was worth it – even in the rain.

We made a short stop at Monkey Creek and my camera batteries died – I replaced them. As we continued to drive – no doubt this is Rivendell - passed Mt. Talbot which was used as a training climb for Sir Edmund Hillary before his Everest climb in 1953. We drove through the Henry Homer Tunnel – 9 years to construct over an 18 year period – completed in 1953 – opened the tourist industry to Milford Sound. A 10% grade descent – emerging on the other side into a canyon – more Rivendell – if it had only cleared a little . . . .It was amazing.

Totoku River Bridge

Waterfalls - the pictures will not do them justice
it was surreal

Boat on Milford Sound

Another short stop at the Totoku River Bridge – the driver referenced being “wet as a shag” I have no idea what he meant –travel along the Cleddue River and arrived at the Milford Sound Terminal at 1:05 pm for a 1:30 cruise. It was pouring.

We boarded the boat, ate lunch and headed into the wind to where the boat meets the Tasman Sea. Along the way we did meet a 60 knot gust that I could tell affected the boat but not problem The seas were not as rough as my trips to Fort Jefferson in the Florida Keys or on Lake Superior to Isle Royale.

Milford Sound - Waterfalls - they were everywhere right and left

Milford Sound

World Heritage Area
To get to Milford Sound the road goes South of
Queenstown around Lake Wikatepu then down to
Te Anau then up to Milford Sound

Milford Sound

When we came about at the entrance to Milford Sound the wind was pushing the rain mostly at the stern. I was on the lower level and took some fantastic pictures from the bow – but the pictures still cannot even begin to describe the majesty and beauty of continuous waterfalls - the rain and mist from the waterfalls made it the water park experience. We headed back on the bus at 3:30 pm and arrived back at my hotel around 7:45 pm.

Deer Park a Lord of the Rings
filming location near
Queenstown

Rainbows are appropriate

During the ride I finished reading The Lord of the Rings Movie Location Guide. I really do wish I had read this before I came to New Zealand – I would have spent a few more days visiting with few days in Wellington. Again – saw some RAINBOWS on return trip – a perfect end..

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

World Heritage areas