FRIDAY June 10, 2016
WEATHER: 62 at 3:30 am; it was a clear sky – I could see stars that I hadn’t seen in s long time, the Milky Way was faint but distinguishable . . . still not as clear as Ayers Rock in February.
Grand Canyon Trailer Village, AZ EL 6860’ Sunrise 5:11 am MST Sunset 8:45 pm MST
TRAVEL: drove to the VC and caught the Blue Bus Village Route to the end of the line in the Grand Canyon Village and walked to the Bright Angel Trailhead.
305 GRAND CANYON National Park, Grand Canyon, AZ
DAY 5
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| Bright Angel Trail map and Welcome at the trailhead |
after a second attempt to update this blog and the Bright Angel Trail - I lost another hour at home on 6/23/16 with a strong AT&T signal - decided maybe the blog memory was beat . . . . started this new post we'll see . . . . . .
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| Bright Angel Trail - Grand Canyon Top 3 Layers Kaibab Limestone, Toroweap Limeston, Coconino Sandstone |
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| Bright Angel Trailhead |
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| Birght Angel Trail Top Three Layers Kaibab Limestone Toroweap Limetstone Coconino Sandstone |
(Steep) The Bright Angel Trail begins just west of Bright Angel Lodge and offers day hikes that range in distance up to 12 miles (round trip). Some shade. Seasonal water subject to pipeline breaks in winter. Upper portion of the trail may be extremely icy in winter or early spring. I didn’t have that problem. This trail down and up was easier than the South Kaibab – better maintained, not as rock, easier to traverse – it didn’t seem as steep and of course I started down at 6 am.
I met a lot of people coming up from an overnight at Indian Garden. Some started hiking at 3 am with headlamps – These people were serious backpackers – mostly rim-to-rim hikers. I hiked down in about 1½ hours and up in 2½ hours. I took 4 bottles of water with and refilled as required.
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| Bright Angel Trail - Map & Profile |
The Trailhead
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| Bright Angel Trail First Tunnel |
The First Tunnel – The top section of the Bright Angel Trail traverses the Kaibab Formation. Fossils enabled geologists to determine that 260 million years ago this area was covered by a war, shallow sea. Sands and calcium carbonate (lime) settled as sludge on the sea floor and hardened into the limestone of the Kaibab Formation.
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| Bright Angel Trial Second Tunnel |
The Toroweap Formation, the next layer below the Kaibab Formation, reflects the same kind of past environment. The land was low, the climate warm and fossils of marine organisms, similar to those in the Kaibab Formation flourished in the ancient sea.
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| My 'Redwing' boots are certainly red in the Coconino Sandstone |
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| Bright Angel Trail Looking up on the trail |
The Second Tunnel at the Second Tunnel you stand on the Bright Angel Fault.which crosses the canyon and extends for miles on each side. The rocks to the east were uplifted 189 ft higher than those on the west. Erosion accelerated the natural break in the rock and formed the side canyon the trail is in. Here the top of the Coconino Sandstone, deposited 265 million years when much of northern Arizona was an enormous desert.
Mile-And-A-Half Resthouse above the resthouse below the north-facing cliffs temperatures cool because of slightly more shade and moisture. The resthouse has a composting toilet, seasonal water and an emergency phone. It lies in the Hermit Formation composed of shales and sandstones deposited in a swampy environment. The CCC constructed the resthouse in 1935-36..
Two-Mile Corner – the rocks in this area are covered in lichens which excrete an acid which slowly breaks down the rock on which they live.
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| Bright Angel Trail - Three Mile Rest House. No kidding! Down is at your discretion but going up is mandatory. There is no easy mule ride or helecopter up. Your feet brought you down - your feet will get up - no matter what your age. |
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| Bright Angel Trail Three Mile Rest House looking up the trail |
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| Bright Angel Trail Three Mile Rest House view from inside |
Three-Mile Resthouse – constructed by the CCC in 1935-36 there is water, compost toilets and an emergency phone. The sheer Redwall Cliff below is the dividing line between the forest and desert-scrub habitat.
In the afternoon I took the Orange Bus Line to the Yavapai Point & Geology Museum but somehow missed the 2pm Geology. Then back to the VC and caught the Blue Bus Line to the Village and visits to the Hopi House and Verkamp’s (passport stamp) and then on to the Hermit’s Rest on the Red Bus lLne for a passport stamp. I got back to the trailer around 6 pm. Another long day.
SATURDAY June 11, 2016
WEATHER: 52 at 4 am; it started to rain just before midnight; no thunder but short periods of rain.
Grand Canyon Trailer Village, AZ EL 6860’ Sunrise 6:11 am MST Grand Canyon Lodge (North Rim), AZ EL 8161’ Sunset 7:45 pm MST
Grand Canyon Trailer Village, AZ EL 6860’ Sunrise 6:11 am MST Grand Canyon Lodge (North Rim), AZ EL 8161’ Sunset 7:45 pm MST
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| Lee's Ferry - Rafts getting ready to go downriver to the Grand Canyon |
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| Lee's Ferry |
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| Lee's Ferry - Marble Canyon Colorado River looking upriver from highway bridge toward Glen Canyon Dam 7 miles upriver |
Lee’s Ferry is actually part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. However, just like most of Lake Mead NRA there is a ranger station but no ranger. This is also part of Vermillion Cliffs National Monument but it is run by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) not the National Park Service. This looks like a favorite fishing spot – calm water about 7 miles up to Glen Canyon Dam. This is also the place where Grand Canyon Colorado River Raft Trips put in..
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| Vermillion Cliffs near Lee's Ferry |
Lee’s Ferry lies in a break between Glen, Marble and Paria Canyons, downriver from Glen Canyon Dam. This natural corridor was the only place a wagon road could be built to connect Utah and northeastern Arizona. It was settled by John D. Lee who established the first Colorado River crossing here.
The stop at the Kaibab Plateau Visitor Center is really part of the Kaibab National Forest – USFS, Dept of Agriculture but the store is run by the Grand Canyon Association. Unfortunately there was one volunteer (maybe he was a paid employee) who for the most part was disrespectful to almost all who entered or asked him a question. I think he embarrassed the lady he was working with. He always answered with a ‘smart ass’ remark. I don’t think his humor was appreciated. He should have stayed at home.
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Entrance Sign |
DAY 6 – North Rim
North Rim Day Hikes:
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Bright Angel Point Trail view |
Bright Angel Point Trail
0.5 mi. / 0.8 km round-trip; 30 minutes approximate round-trip hiking time. A short walk on a paved trail to a spectacular view of the canyon. The trail begins at the log shelter in the parking area by the visitor center or at the corner of the back porch behind the lodge. Self-guiding nature trail pamphlets are available from a box along the trail.
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Transept Trail - storms and thunder and you can see the rain on the North rim across Transept Canyon |
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Trail signs |
Transept Trail
1.5 mi. / 4.8 km one-way ; I walked this in about ¾ hour.and connected with the Birdle trai. Follows the canyon rim from Grand Canyon Lodge to the North Rim Campground.
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Bridle Trail view of Roaring Springs Canyon the sprring is the source of Grand Canyon water |
Bridle Trail
At the end of the Transept Trail I connected with the Bridle Trail and walked back to the Grand Canyon Lodge. An easy walk of 1.2 miles in about a ½ hour. Pets on leash and bicycles are permitted on this hard-packed trail.
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| Grand Canyon North Rim - map |
From the Grand Canyon Lodge parking lot I drove the Scenic Drive to Cape Royal and then to Imperial Point and back to Grand Canyon Lodge.
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| Grand Canyon North RimVista Encantada – EL 8480’ |
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| Grand Canyon North RimRoosevelt Point Overlook EL 8470’ |
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Cape Royal Trail view |
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Cape Royal Trail sign |
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Cape Royal Trail Angels Window |
.8 miles / 1.3 km round-trip. I finished this is ½ hour. This was an easy, flat, paved trail with view of the canyon, Angels Window and the Colorado River. There a several interpretive markers that make this a Nature Trail.
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Cliff Springs Trail |
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Cliff Springs Trail |
1.0 mi. / 1.6 km round-trip; I finished this in ½ hours. The rail meanders down a forested ravine and ends where a chest-high boulder rests under a large overhang. The seep spring is on the cliff side of the boulder. The trail begins directly across the road from a small pullout on a curve 0.3 miles / 0.5 km down the road from Cape Royal.
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| Grand Canyon North Rim Imperial Point named formations |
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| Grand Canyon North RimPoint Imperial – EL 8803’ |
Grand Canyon Village – I was lucky to get a room here otherwise I would not have made the trip. Options included staying The Jacob Lake Inn (45 miles north of the VC) or the Kaibab Lodge (18 miles north of the VC) – both looked like NO VACANCY when I passed them. Expensive but lucky – but NO WIFI here . . . . . it’s only available at the General Store, near the campground – something like Yosemite Village. I bought 2 postcards, thinking I’d write them tonight, but there isn’t even a pen in this room..
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| Grand Canyon Lodge Entrance |
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| Grand Canyon Lodge Dining Room |
Dinner at the Grand Canyon Lodge Dining Room could have a SCENE from National Lampoon’s – Vacation.
· A table was not available for my 8:15 pm reservation. I was given one of those ‘vibrating things’ that would go off when the table was ready. I went to listen to the Star Party lecture in the auditorium – the presentation was good – even better than the ranger I saw on Thursday night...
· I was seated at 8:55 pm; it was near closing I was one of the last parties seated. I brought my glasses to read the menu and ordered a beer and bison flank steak. After few minutes, I left my glass of beer, glasses and glass case on the table and visited the washroom.
· When I returned my table was cleared by the bussers. No beer, no glasses, no glass case, no tablecloth – a bare table. I was standing at the table and noticed my waitress. She too looked surprised, apologized and together with a second waitress seated me and set a second table.
· They were most efficient as they brought another beer and some sourdough bread. As the second waitress was pouring the olive oil (for the bread) on a small bread plate she dropped the decanter with the oil on the table – all over the tablecloth and in the glass of beer – just a bit on the shirt.
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| Grand Canyon North Rim - Grand Canyon Lodge Veranda |
· The event was all but over in less than 2 minutes but seemed humorous. My original waitress queried if I had a book or some papers on the original table – I replied no – but had forgotten about the glasses and glass case. I was comp’d for the dinner but told the State of Arizona would not allow them to comp the alcohol. The bill was $5.61 – I left a $20 bill – remembering how I had spilled a water glass in the lap of Nick Tomaro (Tomaro Construction) at Tuckaway Country Club when I was a busboy in high school. I too was embarrassed and felt bad. The waitresses knew that he rarely came in for dinner and was the best tipper of all the members - - - my past experience was probably what made the whole thing so funny..
· Checking with the desk and hostess in the morning – no one turned in the glasses.
SUNDAY June 12, 2016
WEATHER: in the 50’s at 4 am
Grand Canyon Trailer Village, AZ EL 6860’ Sunrise 5:11 am MST Sunset 7:46 pm MST
TRAVEL: Grand Canyon Lodge (North Rim) to Navajo National Monument to Cameron Trading Post to Grand Canyon Trailer Village (South Rim)
I did try to connect the WIFI last night and this morning at the General Store – It think it’s a joke . . . my phone detected then lost the signal . . . .its only good on one end of the store - really?
305 GRAND CANYON National Park, Grand Canyon, AZ
DAY 7 – North Rim
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| Grand Canyon North Rim - North Kaibab Trail Profile If I'd ever do this again - I'd plan a hike Rim-To-Rim Start down the North Kaibab Trail' overnight at Phantom Ranch; hike up to Indian Garden on the Bright Angel Trail and stay overnigt; finish early the next day hiking up the remiander of the Bright Angel trail |
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| Grand Canyon North rim Sunrise on the North Kaibab Trail |
I started hiking down this trail about 5:10 am – sunrise. Distance and hiking times vary. The trailhead has an EL 8250’. This is the only maintained trail into the canyon from the North Rim. It starts down Roaring Springs Canyon and continues down Bright Angel Canyon 6.8 miles to Cottonwood Camp (EL 4080’) and another 7 miles to Phantom Ranch or Bright Angel Campground (7.3 miles) and the Colorado River (7.4 miles). I took the shortest hike to Coconino Overlook (EL 1.5 miles / 2.4 km round-trip) at 5:15 am just after sunrise. I was finished in about 50 minutes. The next hike would have been to the Supai Tunnel (4 miles / 6.5 km round-trip) but time dictated the length of the hike
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| Grand Canyon North Rim North Kaibab Trail Coconino Overlook |
Many years of experience have shown that hikers who proceed beyond this point during the hottest parts of the day have a much greater probability of suffering from heat-related illness, injury, or death. It happens and people go missing. This trail is also used by mules down to the Supai Tunnel.
A round trip to the Colorado River is 14.2 miles / 22.9 km one-way and trail descends almost 6,000 ft. / 1,800 m. This is not a day hike. A reservation and back-country permit is needed for a stay at Phantom Ranch and if you’ve gone that far you might as well hike RIM-TO-RIM with a hike to Indian Garden on the Bright Angel Trail and then to the trailhead the next day. I don’t’ think this will happen to me in this lifetime. It seems like the hike up Mount Katahdin (the end of the Appalachian Trail) in Baxter State Park, Maine, this is best done when you’re in your 20’s.
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| Grand Canyon Lodge Auditorium Set up for Communion Service |
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| Grand Canyon Lodge North rim Model of Canyon Layers |
Know Kaibab Formation
The Toroweap Formation
Canyon’s Coconino Formation
History Hermit Shale
Study Supai Group
Rocks Redwall Limestone
Made Muav Limestone
By Bright Angel Shale
Time Tapeats Sandstone
Grand Canyon Supergroup
Vishnu Schist & Zoraster Granite
Vishnu Schist & Zoraster Granite
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| Navajo - Entrance Sign |
I asked NPS Rangers on both the South and North Rims of Grand Canyon for information about Navajo National Monument – no one could give me any information or offered advice – not even a brochure . . . Navajo National Monument is off US 160, about 50 miles northeast of Tuba City and about 125 miles from the Grand Canyon. It appears that I will travel US 160 to get to Monument Valley and Glen Canyon.
Navajo National Monument was established as a National Monument in 1909 to protect Keet Seel and later Betatakin and Inscription House.
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| Navajo - Tsegi Overlook |
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| Navajo - fossilized dinosaur footprint |
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| Navajo - View of Betakin Ruins from the Sandal Trail |
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| Navajo - NPS photo of Betatkin Ruins |
Keet Seel (Kawestima) was not mentioned by the NP Volunteer at the desk, but it was occupied much longer than Betatakin, 950 -1250 AD. This is a strenuous 17 mile round trip guided hike by a ranger. It’s location is not on the NPS brochure for Navajo National Monument. Keet Seel is a Navajo name having a rough translation of “broken pottery all around.” Kawastima is the Hopi name for Keet Seel.
Inscription House (Tsu’ovi) like Betatakin and Keet Seel it was permanently occupied from 1250-1300 AD. Modern Indian tribes hold ceremonies here. There are no routes to this dwelling. Tsu’ovi is a Hopi word meaning “place of the rattlesnake.”
According to Hopi tradition, their ancestors – the Hisatsinom – built these cliff dwellings. The Hopi have identified pictographs on canyon walls as clan symbols.
The monument is on Dine’ (pronounced dineh -Navajo for “the people”) land. The Navajo learned silver-smithing from the Spanish and have since developed distinctive jewelry styles. Anasazi is Navajo meaning ”ancient ones.”
By the 1850’s bands of San Juan Southern Paitute’s were living along the Tsegi Canyon system. Today they have been granted land within the Navajo Nation in Hidden Springs near Tuba City and a small parcel near Monument Valley.
The Zuni consider the Tsegi Canyon region an integral part of their traditions. Tsegi Canyon was one of the many stops for the Zuni as they traveled through the Southwest in search of the “Middle Place.” They say that several of their clans originated here and eventually migrated to Zuni Pueblo in eastern New Mexico.
MONDAY June 13, 2016
WEATHER: 52 at 4 am; cloudy, a short but hard rain at 4:25 am; partly cloudy to clear all day, never got above 72 on the rim
Grand Canyon Trailer Village, AZ EL 6860’ Sunrise 6:11 am MST Sunset 7:46 pm MST
TRAVEL: Grand Canyon Trailer Village to Tusayan Ruin and back to the Trailer Village
DAY 8
I had intended to hike the Grandview Trail this morning but the rain was the final straw - it cleared but it was a good decision - maybe today should be a day of catch-up – I’ve been on the go for 6 days straight; have not been able to keep up the blog and I am behind in 4 days of labeling and editing photos. I had planned to do laundry today anyway. . . . . still I think it would have been a good day to walk the Grandview – now kind of regret that I didn’t..
I finished writing the blog in WORD and editing the 198 photos from Thursday around 1:15 pm. I then transferred 238 photos from the last 3 days to the PC. Hours and hours of work ahead . . . . .
It was a very pleasant day. The WIFI in Yavapai Lodge does work – slow but sure. Not enough time in the day to update the blog. Maybe I’ll spend a few hours on the internet in the morning before I leave for Monument Valley.
Grand Canyon Trailer Village: I did laundry today; showers were $2 for 8 minutes – something tells me that $45/day for a site; plus $5 per person; NO WIFI and $2 showers a ¼ mile away is not a real bargain. However, this is the Grand Canyon – try to find something better – closer – the nearest KOA is over 55 miles north. At least the sites are paved, level, and there is some shade.
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| Grandview Point start of the trail |
(Very Steep) The Grandview Trail offers hikes to Coconino Saddle, 2.2 miles (round trip), and Horseshoe Mesa, 6.4 miles (round trip). Trail conditions are tougher than the Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trails. Unmaintained steep trail requires caution. I had checked out the trailhead yesterday on the way back in from Navajo National Monument.
This would have probably been the toughest trail I’d have walked. The trailhead starts at the highest point on the South Rim EL 7400’ and ends at Horseshoe Mesa EL 6235’. This trail is not maintained by the National Park Service and has some very narrow trails with cliff on one side and sheer drop on the other. It would have been tougher than the South Kaibab, at least 2 hours down and 4 hours up.
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| Tusayan Ruin Trail Map |
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| Tusayan Ruin Museum |
There are at least 3,000 pre-historic sites, so far, discovered within the park. Tusayan
Ruin was excavated in 1930. There is a small interpretive center, built in 1932 and named the MacCurdy Wayside Museum of
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| Tusayan Ruin Large Kiva - after visiting the sites in Colorado & New Mexico and Arizona this is anti-climatic |
I visited this site with my parents and brother in 1964 or 65. Many archeologists feel that strong evidence connects the people who lived here and in other sites throughout the Southwest with the modern Hopi and Pueblo communities.
TUESDAY June 14, 2016
WEATHER: 52 at 5:30 am clear & sunny;
84 in Monument Valley at 3 pm MDT
Grand Canyon Trailer Village, AZ EL 6860’ Sunrise 5:10 am MST
Monument Valley, UT EL 5200’ Sunset 8:41 pm MDT
TRAVEL: Grand Canyon Trailer Village to Goulding’s Monument Valley RV,
Monument Valley, UT more than half
the route was the same as traveled Sunday to Navajo NM.
Utah is on MDT I lost an hour getting here.
FLAG DAY
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| Goulding's Campground Monument Valley, UT |
Gouldings Monument Valley RV - WIFI WORKS – the RV park
is literally in the red rocks, little shade but the stars should be out
tonight, gravel site, similar to a KOA – actually maybe nicer – the nearest
interstate highway must be 100 miles from here. Then again, these sites are
very small and packed together, I have Class C
Campers on
a very narrow road in front of me – my truck parked in front of the trailer
barely is off the road - it will be interesting pulling out of here.
HOWEVER, just when I thought things were getting
better it seems some of the staff here needs retraining . . . . too complicated to explain here but
I’ll be looking the the correct charges on my credit card. WIFI is
typically sloooower in the
evening
– probably due to more connections – sometimes updating a post was just a waste
of time.
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| Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park |
“Where the Earth Meets the Sky”
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| Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Visitor Center |
The
Navajo reservation covers 1/3 of the 130,000 square
mile Colorado Plateau. John Wayne used to call
Monument Valley “God’s Treasure.” It was established in 1958 as a preserved
environment by the Navajo Nation Council under the Division
of
Natural Resources.
There
is a Visitor Center, Museum, Gift Shop, Campground, and Hotel. There is no casino and alcohol is not sold
anywhere in the Navajo Nation. The driving trail begins at the
primitive campground and is a 17 mile drive along an unpaved dirt road There are 11 numbered stops. There is a $20 fee per vehicle to enter the
park.
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| Monument Valley Totem Pole |
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| Monument Valley West Mitten Butte |
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| Monument Valley Three Sisters |
Tour Monument Valley Drive for Inspiring Views
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| Monument Valley - John Fords' Point |
John Ford shot scenes from 4 John
Wayne westerns here; as well as many others::
1936 Stagecoach - John
Wayne,
1948 Fort
Apache - John Wayne, Henry
Fonda, Victor McLaughlen, Ward Bond
1949 She
Wore A Yellow Ribbon – Wayne, McLaughlen, John Agar, Ben Johnson
1956 The
Searchers - John Wayne. Jeffrey Hunter, Ward Bond, Natalie Wood
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| Monument Valley Artist's Point |
The angular rocks in Monument Valley that you will see from
this drive are composed of De Chelly
Sandstone, and they resemble a silent, stone city. The monuments can even
be described as domes, cupolas, steeples, cathedrals, and skyscrapers. The
landscape is grand. Everywhere the eye looks it finds an ever-changing
panorama.
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| Monument Valley Cly Butte |
Endless erosion by
water, wind and ice over millions of years chiseled the rock formations into
unique shapes.
De Chelly Sandstone (shale) – most of the formations were created form
this hardened sandstone.
Navajo Sandstone – is a thin soft layer of rock the create ledges, alcoves and
arches.
Mesa – a Spanish word for table, is a rock formation that looks like
a table. A mesa is wide and stable –
wider than it is tall.
Butte – is rock formation that
is taller than it is wide.
Sprire – may be considered the final stage of erosion as a rock
formation becomes narrow and free-standing.
Examples include the Totem Pole and Three Sisters.
I considered walking the
Wildcat Trail Wednesday afternoon; a
4-mile loop hike, but after the return from Natural
Bridges
- it was afternoon, it was hot and I thought it best not to start a 4 mile
desert hike at 3 in the afternoon. The Wildcat
Trail is the only self-guided trail in the park’
WEDNESDAY June 15, 2016
WEATHER: 68 at 4 am; high of 92 in
Monument Valley very windy, some periods of brownout due to blowing sand in the
trailer park
Monument Valley, UT EL 5200’ Sunrise 6:00 am MDT Sunset 8:41 pm MDT
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| Moki Dugway View I am not how it got its name |
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| Moki Dugway - this road up the edge of Cedar Mesa is a challenge. Dirt - no place for a truck with a trialer |
TRAVEL: Goulding’s Monument Valley RV, Monument Valley, UT to Natural
Bridges NM (about 65 miles north) and return
Gouldings in Monument Valley, UT
Gouldings Monument Valley RV - perhaps I was to quick to judge the efficiency
of WIFI here – slow last night – slow this morning – Still, better than what
was available at Grand Canyon Trailer Village.
Part
of the adventure was getting there. Natural Bridges is located on Cedar
Mesa
– which necessitated a 1000 ft climb along
3 miles of dirt road called the Moki Dugway. The road is narrow – the drop-offs is sheer –
the view is fantastic – no place for a vehicle pulling a trailer. There is another way there, but it is much
longer by going through Blanding. I
didn’t see any vehicles for almost 25 miles when I traveled this around 9 am.
Repeatedly
occupied and abandoned during prehistoric times, Natural Bridges was first used during the Archaic
period, from 7000 B.C. to A.D. 500. Only the rock art and stone tools left by
hunter-gatherer groups reveal that humans lived here then. Around AD 700,
ancestors of modern Puebloan
people moved onto the mesa tops to dry farm and later left as the natural
environment changed. Around A.D. 1100, new migrants from across the San Juan River moved into small,
single-family houses near the deepest, best-watered soils throughout this area.
In the 1200's, farmers from Mesa Verde migrated
Several
names have been applied to the bridges. First named "President,"
"Senator" and "Congressman" by Cass Hite, the bridges were
renamed "Augusta," "Caroline" and "Edwin" by
later explorer groups. As the park was expanded to protect nearby Puebloan
structures, the General Land Office assigned the Hopi names "Sipapu,"
"Kachina"
and "Owachomo" in 1909.
Sipapu means "the
place of emergence," an entryway by which the Hopi believe their ancestors
came into this world. Kachina is
named for rock art on the bridge that resembles symbols commonly used on
kachina dolls. Owachomo means
"rock mound," a feature
atop the bridge's east abutment.
I spent about 45
minutes in the Visitor Center – there is a short film and small museum, as well as, a bookstore. You
can comfortably spend 4-5 hours in the park.
If you walk the 8 mile canyon connecting the 3 bridges be sure to have
someone pick you up at the end. Still
plenty of trails to walk here.
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| Sipapu Bridge |
Sipapu Bridge is the second
largest natural bridge in the world (only Rainbow Bridge in Glen Canyon is
bigger). In Hopi mythology, a “sipapu”
is a gateway through which souls may pass to the spirit world. The trail to the
canyon bottom below Sipapu is
the steepest in the park. A staircase and three wooden
ladders
aid in the descent. The ledge located
halfway down the trail provides an excellent view of Sipapu. The remaining portion of the trail leads down a series of
switchbacks and ladders to the grove of Gambel's oak beneath Sipapu.
Kachina Bridge Trail – 1.4 miles round-trip with an EL difference of 400 ft – just an hour to go down and up this trail 10.8 % grade.
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| Kachina Bridge trail |
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| Kachina Bridge trail |
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| Kachina Bridge at the bottom |
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| Owachomo Bridge |
Owachomo means
“rock mound” in Hopi, and is named after the
rock formation on top of the southeast end of the bridge. From the overlook,
the twin buttes called “The Bear’s Ears” break the eastern
horizon. The original road to Natural Bridges passed between these buttes, ending across
the canyon from Owachomo Bridge at
the original visitor center (which was a platform tent). The old trail still
winds up the other side of the canyon, but is seldom used. Tuwa Creek no longer flows under
Owachomo
like it did for thousands of years. The bridge’s delicate form suggests that it
is has eroded more quickly than the other bridges.
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| It was very windy |
THURSDAY June 16, 2016
WEATHER: 66 at 5:30 am; a breeze
. . . 93 degrees at 11:15 am in
Glen Canyon; should get to the 100’s -
keeping the windows on the trailer open – I’ll just have to dut - the AC
wouldn’t keep up the outside temp anyway
Monument Valley, UT EL 5200’ Sunrise 6:00 am MDT Glen Canyon NM – Page, AZ EL 4300’ Sunset 7:47
pm MST
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| Glen Canyon Wahweap Campground |
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| Glen Canyon Wahweap Campground concrete pad - lots of room - a very nice site |
Stopped in Page,
AZ at a glass
repair shop – it was adjacent to the RV repair which looked
crowded – the glass
guys could fix it but would need a couple of days to order and repair. I’m thinking glass guys may be better than RV
Repair. There is a Wal-Mart
and a
True Value Hardware in Page – some
plastic and cardboard should do the trick until I can get to Cedar
City, UT.
Glen Canyon Waheap Campground – WIFI . . at least sometimes in the campground – I
don’t expect much; like Grand Canyon, showers here cost $2 but the laundry is inexpensive $1 per wash’ 50
cents for dryer; concrete pad – level; occasional shade which is better than Lake
Mead, of course its crowded and only 2 of the 4 dryers work.
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| Glen Canyon National Recreation Area - huge - this is only part of it Rainbow Bridge National Monument is a 50 mile trip from Wahweap |
310 GLEN CANYON National Recreation Area, Page
, AZ
Glen Canyon NRA is the best NRA
I’ve visited – mainly because it has facilities a hotel, lodge, store, that are
up to date and maintained and Page, AZ (POP 7,347) is close and full of the typical
chain stores, restaurants, hardware store and a Wal-Mart.
The
Carl Hayden Visitor Center is 3 times the
size of the one VC at Lake Mead. Although Lake Powell does not appear
to be as large as Lake Mead, the Glen
Canyon Dam is almost as high as Hoover Dam.
FRIDAY June 17, 2016
WEATHER: 68 at 4:30 am; a breeze
. . . 93 degrees at 11:15 am in
Glen Canyon; should get to the 100’s -
keeping the windows on the trailer open – I’ll just have to dut - the AC
wouldn’t keep up the outside temp anyway
Glen Canyon NM – Page, AZ EL 4300’ Sunrise 5:00 am MDT Glen Canyon, AZ EL Sunset 7:47 pm MST
TRAVEL: Glen Canyon NRA – boat tour to Rainbow
Bridge NM
 |
| Cliffs along the Colorado River on Lake Powell |
The
Rainbow Bridge Cruise boarded at 0730
for an entire day on Lake Powell. Rainbow
Bridge is located 50 miles up the original path of the Colorado River.
311 RAINBOW BRIDGE National Monument
THIS IS #311 OF THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
SITES I’VE VISITED - 100 TO GO
There
are only two ways to visit Rainbow Bridge; 1) boat or 2)
hike – apparently hiking in is not valued NPS option because
you have to walk through Navajo Lands and obtain a Navajo permit
– a long walk through the desert starting at Navajo
Mountain.
 |
| Rainbow Bridge Dock from here it is a 1 1/4 mile walk to Rainbow Bridge |
 |
| Rainbow Bridge |
I caught a boat at the Glen Canyon’s Wahweap Marina after a 2 ½ hour, 50 mile trip up Lake Powell, it still was a one-way 1¼ mile walk to see the bridge, because of the low water level on Lake Powell you can no longer see Rainbow Bridge from the water – it’s been over 25 years since high-water in 1983 . . . the trail from the dock is 1¼ one-way – fairly level and maintained. It was a 20 minute walk one way. The boat spent about 1½ half hours here..
 |
| Navajo Generating Station from Lake Powell |
 |
| Rainbow Bridge Boat Tour Padre Butte |
Temporary fix
for the broken window – plexi-glass and some weather-stripping did the trick
from the True Value in Page, AZ. It’s probably a
better seal than the original window.
I’m pretty sure the DESIGN TEMP for this trailer’s AC is probably 80 –
maybe 85. The AC unit isn’t big enough
to keep it cool when the temp is above that.
It’s 84 outside now and 84 in the trailer. When the temp outside drops, the trailer
follows.
SATURDAY June 18, 2016
WEATHER: 71 at 4:30 am; still
. . . 101 degrees at 5:30 pm
opened up this afternoon – the AC just can’t keep up with the sun beating down
on the trailer – shade would help. The
trailer cools down as the sun goes down
Glen Canyon NM –
Page, AZ EL 4300’ Sunrise 5:00 am MDT
Glen Canyon, AZ EL Sunset 7:47 pm
MST
TRAVEL: Glen Canyon NRA – boat tour to Navajo
Canyon – Antelope Canyon and Glen Canyon Dam
 |
| Glen Canyon Navajo-Antelope Canyons Boat Tour |
 |
| Glen Canyon Navajo-Antelope Canyons Boat Tour |
310 GLEN CANYON National Recreation Area, Page
, AZ
The
Canyons Adventure Cruise boarded at 0830
for a 3 hours 45 minute cruise.
 |
| Glen Canyon Navajo-Antelope Canyons Boat Tour "Navajo Tapestry" |
First through the “cut” and down the main channel to Navajo Canyon . Up about 6 miles of Navajo Canyon to view “Navajo Tapestry” located in the Navajo Nation. Then a cruise up Antelope Canyon. This is a narrow, high walled, Navajo-Sandstone canyon. The boat captain makes a 180 degree turn in a very, very tight space. On past the Antelope Island Marina owned by the Navajo Nation past Glen Canyon Dam and a return to Wahweap Bay going around Antelope Island. I’ll let the pictures tell the story. It was a good way to spend ½ day – and without a boat it was the only way to do it.
SUNDAY June 19, 2016
WEATHER: 71 at 4:30 am; 82 by 7am . . . forecast calls for another day in the 100’s
Glen Canyon NM – Page, AZ EL
4300’ Sunrise 5:00 am MDT Glen Canyon,
AZ EL Sunset 7:47 pm MST
TRAVEL: Glen Canyon NRA and Page
AZ, area
WIFI here will not
update the blog – but will provide access to the internet- did laundry and
edited pictures . . . . as of July 3 since I'm updating this at a McDonald's in Cedar City, UT this inability of WIFI to upload at RV parks will be a recurring theme
10 am mass at Immaculate Heart of Mary
Parish in Page AZ. This parish is 50 years old
claiming its Golden Jubilee in 2008, but the statuary looks much older than
that – probably from some other, now abandoned church. A retired Air Force chaplain appears to be
the pastor – I didn’t see a bulletin – about 60 people in church - pretty sure
half were visitors. Four servers- two
boys, two girls – the priest believes in incense and lots of candles. Recorded chord organ music . . . .
Updated photos,
planned ahead and rested - hot again
today 102 at 2 pm.
310 GLEN CANYON National Recreation Area, Page
, AZ
MONDAY June 20, 2016
WEATHER: HOT;
Glen Canyon NM – Page, AZ EL 4300’ Sunrise 5:00 am MST
MacArthur’s Temple View RV - St. George, UT EL 2860’ Sunset 8:47
pm MDT
TRAVEL: Glen Canyon NRA, Page AZ to Grand Staircase
Escalante NM Kanab, UT to
Hurricane, UT to MacArthur’s Temple View RV, St. George UT
GRAND STAIRCASE ESCALANTE National Monument,
749 US 89, Kanab, UT
Although I
planned to visit here July 9 when I stay at the Canyons of the
Escalante RV Park it appears this place is so huge
and remote that everyone claims a piece of it.
BUT IT IS ADMINISTERED BY THE BLM NOT the NPS; it is not a NPS site. It may change some future plans i.e. no need to stay in Escalante, UT
The Visitor
Center 745 US 89
Kabab, UT which is northwest of Glen Canyon NRA is run by the Bureau of Land
Management (BLM) and on my way to Pipe Springs NM and the RV Park in George,
UT. So I had to stop – the visit may result in a
change of plans. The info below is off
the website for Zion NP.-
Kanab Visitor Center - The Kanab Visitor
Center, shown below, has a focus on "traces in time" which includes
both geology and archeology. Phone: 435.644.4680
Cannonville Visitor Center - Cannonville's theme
is on the early settler history. The building and the fence around it is a
design from a vernacular stone house.
Phone: 435.679.8981
Phone: 435.679.8981
 |
| Grand Staircase Escalante - Kanab Visitor Center map |
The
Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is a huge chunk
of public land engulfing much of the Southwestern Utah desert. The national
monument is a 1.9 million acre (1,870,800 federal/15,000 privately owned) oasis
of mostly primitive land strewn with streams, monoliths, slot canyons scientific treasures galore.
This
parcel of land dominates the rural southern section of the state of Utah,
protecting as much as two-hundred-million years of history in its boundaries.
This vast oasis provides a record of geological, biological, paleontological and
archeological data yet to be discovered.
Even
Glen Canyon NRA claims Escalante. Of course you need a boat to get there. The
following is off the Glen Canyon NRA website.
Early
Days
The Escalante River was named in 1872 by A.H. Thompson, a member of the Powell Survey who passed through the upper basin area on a mapping expedition. He was travelling through the area again in 1875 when a group of Mormon pioneers were planning a settlement in the area. Thompson suggested they name their new town Escalante. The name comes from the Dominguez-Escalante Expedition of 1776. Two Spanish priests, Friars Dominguez and Escalante, traversed much of the southwest in a grueling expedition in an attempt to reach California from Santa Fe, New Mexico. The party did not reach the Escalante drainage, but Thompson, who knew the history of the area, thought it would be a good way in which to honor one of the first known explorers of the Southwest.
The Escalante River was named in 1872 by A.H. Thompson, a member of the Powell Survey who passed through the upper basin area on a mapping expedition. He was travelling through the area again in 1875 when a group of Mormon pioneers were planning a settlement in the area. Thompson suggested they name their new town Escalante. The name comes from the Dominguez-Escalante Expedition of 1776. Two Spanish priests, Friars Dominguez and Escalante, traversed much of the southwest in a grueling expedition in an attempt to reach California from Santa Fe, New Mexico. The party did not reach the Escalante drainage, but Thompson, who knew the history of the area, thought it would be a good way in which to honor one of the first known explorers of the Southwest.
Ranching
was one of the primary occupations of the new village and the cowboys soon
began to push their way into the many canyons of the Escalante seeking good grass and lost cattle. They were among the
first non-Indians to see the arches, bridges, alcoves, and other wonders which
draw visitors today.
Just
prior to World War II, a proposal was put forth in Congress to create Escalante National Park. This proposed
park included not only the canyons of the
Escalante, but most of southeastern Utah.
World
War II intervened however and the proposal was all but forgotten in the crush
of legislation related to fighting the war. Afterwards, some felt that national
priorities had changed and Congress was, perhaps, more reluctant to restrict
extractive activities such as mining on so large a chunk of land. Eventually,
several national parks and monuments were created in this area, though even
their combined size did not approach that of the original Escalante National Park - the park that almost was.
The remote and pristine Grand Staircase-Escalante has preserved a wealth of original
populations of flora, fauna, new species of dinosaurs and Ancestral
Puebloan (Anasazi) artifacts.
 |
| Pipe Spring National Monument sign |
Pipe Spring National
Monument - Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians Visitor Center and Museum was a pleasant surprise.
An
enthusiastic and friendly staff, knowledgeable rangers, a well done 28 minute
video that explains the clash of
cultures – between the Mormons, the US government and , and Kaibab Paiute.
 |
| Pipe Spirng - Winsor Castle |
 |
| Pipe Spring inside Rooms to the left and right 1st & 2nd floors |
Pipe Spring lies on the Arizona strip, a vast high desert between the Grand Canyon and the Vermillion Cliffs of northern Arizona. It is a harsh and seemingly uninhabitable region, but hidden geological forces bring life-sustaining water to a few places.
Permeable sandstone
aquifiers to the north hold water from rain and snowmelt. It slowly
percolates down to impermeable layers, then flows south to the base of the Vermillion Cliffs where it is forces to the surface at places like Pipe Spring.
percolates down to impermeable layers, then flows south to the base of the Vermillion Cliffs where it is forces to the surface at places like Pipe Spring.
Water is why the Mormons
seeking grazing
lands, came to the Arizona strip and settled at water sources like Pipe
Spring in the
1880’s. The Mormons built the fort as protection
against Indian raids and it also served as a hiding place for the additional
wives of Mormons who practiced
polygamy.
In 1863 James
Whtmore acquired title to
160 acres around Pipe Spring, and brought sheep and cattle. In
1866 Whtimore and his herdsmen
were killed trying to recover their stolen cattle. What followed was a massacre of over 100 Navajo by Mormon militiamen and the building of a
stone cabin and fort ensued in 1868.
 |
| Pipe Spring map relative to other locations in the area |
Brigham Young appointed Anson Perry Winsor as the first ranch manager at Pipe
MacArthur’s Temple View RV Resort:
HOT - I set up about 3:30 pm MDT and it was 113
degrees. WIFI is no good at the trailer sites but at
least I can connect in the air-conditioned building – still unacceptable and
cannot upload to the internet. I set up
in the lounge where there are 3 pool tables.
Great facility but I do not use the services – this
is a built –up area, internet WIFI should be a given Rating of 5 out of 10. Gravel site
. . . .
I attempted to
get the trailer glass repaired in town and went to a very nice glass repair
place called Jones Paint & Glass – to make a long story short – it would have been
special order and I don’t think they wanted to bother – that is sad . . . especially since they were recommended.
I called a RV
Repair place in Cedar City and they said they could measure and special order the piece in 3-5
days. I cancelled tomorrow here in St.
George and will go to Cedar
City tomorrow.
 |
| AKickin' Tire & Auto and that is my trailer I had my doubts about this but the owner called on Wed 6/22 and said it be repaired by the following Friday 7/1. Today is 7/3 still not repaired. |
 |
| Zion - Kolob Canyons |
St. George, UT EL 2860’ Sunrise 6:15 am MDT Cedar City EL 5846’ Sunset 8:57 pm MDT
TRAVEL: MacArthur’s Temple View RV Resort, St. George UT to AKickin Tire & Auto formerly Desert Pines RV, 1001 S. Main St, Cedar City, UT to KOA Cedar City to USPS Cedar City to Zion NP Kolob Canyon to Cedar Breaks NM to Holiday Inn Express
313 ZION National Park – Kolob Canyons Visitor Center, Cedar City, UT
 |
| Timber Creek Overlook Trail |
Zion Canyon, first known to the native Southern Paiute people as Mukuntuweap, was settled by pioneers in the
1860’s. Zion was set aside as Mukuntuweap
National Monument in 1909, and became Zion
National Park in 1919.
 |
| Zion - Kolob Canyons view |
Kolob Canyons is just off I-15 and about 15 miles south of Cedar
City, UT. There is a small Visitor
Center and a ranger who checks/collects fees. There is a small bookstore, no museum. Three trailheads are adjacent to the Scenic
Drive.
 |
| Zion - Kolob Canyons Timber Creek Overlook Trail view from end of trail |
The Kolob
Canyons Road climbs past the
canyons and red rocks of the Kolob Canyons and ends at the Kolob Canyons
Viewpoint. Also at the end of the road is a 1.25 mile
round trip Timber Creek Overlook Trail. I took about 40 minutes to walk
this trail.
There are 2 additional
trails that I may walk another day.
314 CEDAR BREAKS National Monument – Cedar
City, UT
 |
| Cedar Breaks - entrance sign |
Shaped like a huge
coliseum, the amphitheater is over 2,000 ft deep and over three miles in
diameter. This is the steep west-facing
side of the Markagunt Plateau. Stone spires stand like statues
in a gallery alongside columns, arches, and canyons. The formations are the result of erosion by
rain, ice, and wind.
 |
| Cedar Breaks - amphitheater view from Point Supreme |
The drive up US 15 was very steep – probably the shortest route to Panguitch, UT where I will go in order to visit Bryce Canyon NP, but I think I will avoid this route. An alternate route up I-15 and down to UT 20 is longer but probably less stressful for the truck – a steep grade for a truck pulling a trailer..
There are 4 trails
here, I’ll return to walk 3 of them another day.
Holiday Inn Express, Cedar City, UT – I thought access to the internet
would change here but I’m still unable to upload to the blog.
WEDNESDAY June 22, 2016
WEATHER: 60 at 6 am in Cedar City, UT
Cedar City, UT EL 5046’ Sunrise 6:15 am MDT
TRAVEL: Cedar City, UT - - - - CDC-SLC-ORD
THURSDAY - MONDAY June 23-27, 2016
Actually
flew home for a dentist appointment and a family reunion
